12 Best Things to Do in Tromso
Tromso sits far above the Arctic Circle, on an island where winter nights swallow the day and the northern lights turn the sky electric. I went there for the aurora and got a whole four days of cold, quiet, magnificent nothing in the best sense. Here is what I would do again in this strange polar city.
Hunt the Aurora on a Guided Chase
The northern lights are the reason most people come, and a guided chase is the surest way to see them. A guide watches the forecast and drives you to the clearest spot, often deep into the fjords. When the sky finally ripples green and purple, standing in the snow under it is the least describable thing I have ever experienced. Go with a group and patience.
Warm Up on a Dog Sled Ride
The dog sledding around Tromso is a working experience, not a theme park one. You help harness the teams, learn the commands, and then let a line of eager huskies pull you across a snowy plain. The sound of the snow under the runners and the constant barking is unforgettable.
Cruise the Fjords for Whales
In winter, humpback and killer whales gather in the fjords around Tromso to feed on herring. A boat trip out to watch them breach and blow in the dim polar light is one of the most memorable wildlife experiences I have had. Bring serious layers; the deck is cold.
Walk Down to the Arctic Cathedral
The Arctic Cathedral is the white triangular building that anchors every Tromso postcard, and it is even better in person. The triangular glass wall floods the nave with pale northern light. It sits across the bridge, so the walk over is part of the experience.
Take the Fjellheisen Cable Car Up
The cable car up to Mount Storsteinen gives you Tromso laid out below, with the city lights reflecting on the fjord and the mountains surrounding everything. Go on a clear day or at the blue hour of twilight that is this city’s daytime. The view alone is worth the climb.
Eat a Slow Dinner at a Fancy Arctic Restaurant
Tromso has a serious food scene that uses local reindeer, Arctic char, and cod. I had a long, warming dinner of cured and roasted local meat that was the most memorable meal of a long trip. Book ahead; the good tables go fast in winter.
Learn to Snowcat or Ski the Local Slopes
If you ski, the small slopes above Tromso are a treat, with views down over the fjord on clear days. If you do not, the beginner areas and instructors are forgiving. Either way, an afternoon in the snow up there beats sitting in a hotel.
Visit the Polar Museum
Tromso was the jumping off point for classic polar expeditions, and the Polar Museum tells those stories with maps, sledges, and clothing from the old explorers. It is a proper museum in the harborfront warehouses, and it gave the city’s cold a lot more meaning.
Ride the Local Bus to a Wild Viewpoint
The local buses go far up the roads around town, and from the higher stops you get snowbound forests and ramshackle homesteads with the mountains heavy around them. It is the cheapest and most atmospheric transport on this list, and a great escape from the crowds.
See the Midnight at the Planetarium
Short on clear skies for the aurora? The planetarium runs a high quality show about the lights that explains the science behind the color and the motion. It does not replace the real thing, but it helps you understand it, and it is a warm way to spend an hour.
Try a Mooring and the Local Drinks
The harborfront holds working mooring posts and sheds, a reminder that Tromso is a working fishing city. Nearby, bars serve everything from strong coffee laced with something warm to the national aquavit. Sit by a window and watch the boats bob under the lights.
Take the Fast Boat to a Quiet Village
From the harbor, express boats run out along the fjord to small settlements. I took one to a tiny place for a few hours, walked the empty snow streets, and came back as the lights came on. It was the simplest and most calming day of my trip.
See the Midnight Sun from a Waterfront Window
Even when the aurora sleeps, Tromso has another strange light gift. In winter the highlight is the short blue twilight, but on the longest days the sun barely dips below the horizon. A quiet drink by a waterfront window as the light refuses to fade is a quiet, strange pleasure you will only get this far north. It makes the cold feel like a fair trade.
Tromso is not a big city, but it is a remarkable one. Dress like you mean it, chase the sky, eat well, and give the cold a chance. It rewards the people who do.
