Things to Do in Zell am See, Austria
Zell am See sits at the meeting point of a high glacier and a clean alpine lake, and that pairing is exactly what makes it special. I have spent time there in both summer and winter, and the town hands you two entirely different mountains depending on the season. Here is my list of what is actually worth doing.
Ride Up the Schmittenhöhe
The summit of the Schmittenhöhe, at over two thousand metres, is the signature experience of the town. The cable car lifts you from the lake level to a wide panorama over the water, the Hohe Tauern peaks and, on a clear day, far out across the Alps. I went up at opening time and had the terrace almost to myself, watching the light creep across line after line of summits. There are gentle summit walks and a small chapel at the top, and the mountain works in both summer and winter.
Swim or Paddle the Lake
Lake Zell is deep, cold and staggeringly clear. In summer I swam from the bathing areas on the shore and hired a small boat to drift across to the far side, where the little Elisabeth Chapel sits in its own quiet bay with the peaks behind it. The flat, car free cycle track circles the whole lake, and it became my daily habit, an easy loop that passes beaches, piers and cafes at every corner. Give the water a little respect, because it is mountain fed and never truly warms.
Visit the Glacier on a Clear Day
The nearby Kitzsteinhorn glacier is one of Austria’s most accessible high glaciers, reached by a road and cable car system that takes you onto the ice and snow beneath the three thousand metre contour. In summer I walked out onto the glacier in a jacket and shorts, and the 360 degree viewing platform looks straight over the pinnacles of the Hohe Tauern. It makes a brilliant contrast to the warm lakeside weather, so check the forecast carefully and go on the clearest day you can manage.
Cycle the Trails
Beyond the lake loop, Zell plugs into a wider network of cycling routes along the Salzach valley and up into the side valleys. I rented a bike and spent a full day peddling out toward Kaprun and back, with an e bike doing the gentle uphill work whenever I wanted it. There are also proper mountain bike trails in the summer lift areas for anyone who wants real descending. It is one of the easiest places I know to cover serious ground on two wheels in a single day.
Explore the Old Town
The old town is small and handsome, with a baroque church, a lakeside promenade and a market square that fills with evening life as the day trips fade. I liked the unhurried pace, the bakery stops and the quiet bits of history told on little plaques around a few of the older buildings, including the Turkish connections in the local past. It is rarely the point of a trip here, but it is the comfortable frame around the outdoor days and well worth an hour of your time.
Winter on the Piste
When the snow arrives, Zell am See turns into a ski town overnight. The Schmittenhöhe offers cruising, tree lined runs that suit intermediate skiers, while the Kitzsteinhorn side of the area serves higher, steeper terrain and holds reliable snow well into the spring. I found the ski bus from town to the lifts easy to use, and the aprés in the resort base village pleasant without being raucous. It is a strong choice for groups with very mixed ability levels.
Other Adventures Worth Taking
Add a day for Kaprun’s reservoirs and the Sigmund Thun gorge, where a boardwalk wends past thundering waterfalls into a narrow rocky cleft. Paragliders launch off the ridge above town and, in summer, some take passengers on a tandem glide out over the lake, which looks like the finest view in the Alps. A long, slow sunset walk along the promenade after a big day was my favourite way to close a visit, the peaks going pink over the still water.
Packing for the Mountains
Whatever season you choose, layers are the single most useful thing to bring. Even on a warm July day the summit lifts out of Zell can be cool and windy, and the glacier plateau is genuinely cold, so a jacket and a warm layer belong in your bag all year. In winter add proper ski clothing and goggles, and in summer a swimsuit and sunscreen because the high sun is strong. A small backpack for the day trips, a water bottle and sturdy boots will carry you across most of what the town offers without you ever feeling under prepared.
Practical Notes
Buy a summer or winter pass if you will use several lifts, because it quickly pays for itself, and book the glacier for the clearest day and the summit for the morning. Bring a swimsuit even in summer, pack layers for the high peaks regardless, and expect families during the school holidays. This is one of those rare towns where the lake and the glacier sit in a single postcard, and you should plan to see both while you are there.
