10 Best Things to Do in Toledo, Spain
Toledo is a walled city balanced on a hill inside a deep loop of the Tagus river, about an hour south of Madrid. The Spanish call it the city of three cultures because Christians, Jews, and Muslims built it together, and you can feel that mix in every crooked street. I spent two days getting happily lost here. Here is my list of the best things to do in Toledo.
1. Take in the skyline from the Mirador del Valle
Before you even enter the walls, cross the river and climb the road to the mirador on the far bank. From here the whole city appears on its rocky promontory, the cathedral spire and the crenellated Alcazar rising above a tangle of ochre roofs. I went at golden hour when the buildings glowed warm against the green valley. It is the classic view for a reason, and the short drive from the coach park costs nothing.
2. Marvel at the cathedral’s altarpiece
The Primate Cathedral of Spain fills a whole block and hides one of the great works of medieval art inside. I stood in front of the vast gilded altarpiece, a wall of carved and painted scenes climbing to the ceiling, and it took my breath away. The choir stalls, the treasury with its gold monstrance, and the high windows all reward slow looking. Give yourself a couple of hours; there is a lot in here.
3. Rose through the Alcazar’s towers
The Alcazar is the square stone fortress at the highest point of Toledo. It has been a Roman palace, a royal residence, and a military academy, and it sits over a great sweep of the gorge. I walked the ramparts for the views across the river and read about the long history in the museum inside. The roof terrace above it all is one of the best spots in the city to watch the sunset settle over the valley.
4. Follow El Greco through the churches
El Greco made Toledo his home, and his bold paintings appear throughout the city. The most famous is the stunning Skyvault of Toledo found at the El Greco Museum, and a short walk away the church of Santo Tome keeps his masterpiece, the Burial of the Count of Orgaz. I went between the two reading his story, and the dramatic light in both works is unmistakable. It is a small private art tour made easy.
5. Wander the Jewish quarter
The old Jewish district, a tangle of narrow lanes below the cathedral, holds two of the most beautiful synagogues in Spain. The Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca is all white horseshoe arches, and El Transito has detailed stonework and a fine museum of the area’s history. I walked the streets at dusk when the shadows made the old courtyards mysterious. It is a quiet, reflective part of the city that deserves more than a glance.
6. Eat your way along the tapas streets
Toledo is a serious food town best enjoyed standing at a bar counter. I worked my way along the lanes near the Plaza de Zocodover eating boquerones, cured ham, and the famous local partridge stew, all washed down with local wine. The spiced marzipan, made here for centuries, is a specialty worth saving for dessert. Bar counters fill fast at lunch, so arrive early or plan for tapas at the quieter end of the day.
7. Cross the San Martin Bridge
Two great stone bridges leap the Tagus, and San Martin is the more dramatic. I walked it late in the day and looked down to the clear green water far below the arches, with the cathedral high above and behind me. The river bank here has a path that makes a gentle loop under the walls. On evenings in summer, locals come down to cool off along the water and the whole scene feels very easy.
8. Pick up steelwork and swords on the side streets
Toledo has been a centre of sword and damascene steelwork for centuries, and the old town is full of workshops selling blades and filigree jewellery. I went into a small forge where a craftsperson hammered a damascene pattern into dark steel, a technique brought here in the Middle Ages. Even if you do not buy a sword, the marquetry boxes and knives make fine keepsakes, and the skill on show is impressive.
9. Climb the tower of Santo Tome
Besides the great painting, the church of Santo Tome offers a climb up its mudéjar tower for a close look at the rooftops of the old city. I went up when the bells had just stopped and stood looking over the tiled rooflines down to the river bend. The brickwork of the tower itself, done in the mudéjar style that mixes Muslim and Christian design, is a beautiful thing to study up close.
10. Watch the city lights from the Palacio de Congresos steps
As night falls, one of the best free shows is from the steps of the modern congress palace across the river, which is lit up in shifting colours against the dark water. I sat there watching the old city on its hill glow amber while the modern facade reflected below. It frames the whole scene perfectly and the reflection stretches across the still Tagus. It is a calm way to close out a day of climbing and exploring.
Toledo is compact enough to walk in a day but rich enough to reward several. Between the cathedral, the El Greco paintings, the layered history of three faiths, and the simple pleasure of the river views, it is one of the finest day trips from Madrid. Wear comfortable shoes for the slopes and give yourself time to wander without a map; the getting lost is half the charm.
