Things to Do in Sucre: My Guide to Bolivia’s Capital
Sucre is the official capital of Bolivia, a title it holds more on paper than in daily reality, since the government works out of La Paz. But that is exactly what I love about it. Sucre is a whitewashed colonial city at 2,800 metres, painted in a tradition that earned it a nickname about its sky and its lime and its calm. I come for the quiet, the food, and the streets that feel untouched by the rush. Here is what I do.
Walk the Plaza 25 de Mayo
Every day in Sucre starts at the central plaza, and it is one of the most beautiful squares in South America. I sit on a bench under the palm trees, watch the pigeons scatter, and look up at the white cathedral and the Government Palace. Vendors move slowly through the crowds, and night falls with the bells of the churches echoing across the roofs. It is the perfect place to simply be.
Visit the Casa de la Libertad
Bolivia’s independence was declared in this building, and the Casa de la Libertad holds the handwritten act that started it all. I take a guided tour through the halls, past the colonial paintings and the grand meeting rooms, and I stand in the very room where the country was born. It is history you can almost feel, and it gives the whole city a weight that the white walls hide.
See the Cal Orcko Dinosaur Footprints
Just outside town, at Cal Orcko, a quarry cliff wall is covered in thousands of fossilised dinosaur footprints, among the largest collections in the world. I stand at the viewpoint and scan the tilted rock face, where the tracks climb the stone in a ghost of an ancient lakebed. The site runs a light and sound show at dusk that brings the prints to life. It is bizarre and brilliant and unlike anything else in Bolivia.
Climb to the Recoleta Church and Viewpoint
The Recoleta, a church and small convent on a hill above town, gives the best view over Sucre. I walk through the old convent’s courtyards and miradors, then step onto the terrace where the whole of the city spreads below, all white roofs and church towers. I time it for the late afternoon, when the light softens and the city glows. It is my favourite place in Sucre to take a breath.
Eat a Salteña for Breakfast
No visit to Sucre is complete without a salteña, the Bolivian baked empanada with a juicy filling. I join the locals queuing outside the wooden doors of a famous bakery in the morning, then eat mine carefully, leaning over because the broth inside runs hot. It is a messy, delicious ritual, and the reason I skip a real breakfast for most of my time here.
Explore the Central Market
Sucre’s Mercado Central is where the city does its daily life, and it is the place I go to feel like a local. I wander the stalls of fruit, vegetables, herbs, and textiles, past women in traditional dress selling everything a household could need. Upstairs there are tiny comedores serving cheap, honest lunch plates. I eat a set lunch here and consider it the best value meal in town.
Shop for Textiles and Handicrafts
The markets and small shops around the centre sell some of Bolivia’s finest textiles, weavings, and ceramics, and Sucre is my pick for quality souvenirs. I buy handwoven shawls, pottery, and the colourful bags that the locals carry everywhere. Take your time, bargain gently, and the crafts are generally better than the ticky tacky version sold in bigger cities. Each piece leaves my hands carrying a story.
Try the Traditional Postal or Chocolate
Sucre has a sweet streak that I happily give in to. I visit chocolate shops that use Bolivian cacao, and I order a chopped chocolate with cream and cheese in the old style, strange and wonderful at once. In the afternoon I sit in a cafe over a slice of cake and a proper coffee, watching the plaza from the window. It is the unhurried pace that makes Sucre work.
Take the Cable Car or Walk Up Capilla del Abasto
For a different angle on the city, I head to the edge of town and ride the small cable lift or walk up toward the Abasto viewpoint, above the shoulder of the city. From here the layout makes sense, the white blocks, the red roofs, the ring of green hills that cup the valley. A short hike and a cold drink at the top beats any aerial tour I have paid for elsewhere.
Plan Around the Altitude
At 2,800 metres, Sucre is high enough that I feel it on the stairs, so I plan my first day gently and drink plenty of water. I pace myself walking up the hills to the Recoleta and give myself time to adjust before any longer hikes. It is a small accommodation that makes the whole trip more comfortable, and honestly, the slower pace just suits this city.
