Things to Do in Sihanoukville, Cambodia
When I landed in Sihanoukville, a backpacker town rebuilding itself at a frantic pace, I almost turned around. But the coast here opens onto some of the cleanest water and emptiest islands in Southeast Asia, and once I understood how to use the city as a base, it became one of my favorite stretches of Cambodia. Here is what to do in Sihanoukville to get the best of it and skip the noise.
Set Up a Base on the Right Beach
The two main beaches sit on opposite sides of the peninsula, and they feel completely different. Otres Beach on the south side kept its original relaxed, low key character even as the town boomed, and that is where I based myself. The sand is wide, the water is calm, and the simple guesthouses with hammocks out front are exactly what I wanted. Sok San and the northern beaches have more going on, but if you want quiet, head south and stay put.
Take the Boats to the Islands
Most people visit Sihanoukville for one reason, and that is access to the archipelago. I took a day trip to Koh Rong and could not believe the turquoise water and white sand that greeted me. The island has jungle trails, a tiny fishing village and some of the most photographed beaches in the country. I have also heard great things about the quieter side of Koh Rong Samloem, which draws a crowd that prefers sunsets and silence to parties. Either way, build in at least one full island day, because the boats only run when the weather cooperates.
Snorkel the Clear Water
The reefs around the islands turn snorkeling into the sort of activity that needs no planning. On my trip I rented gear, jumped off the boat a short distance from a sandy bay, and floated over schools of bright fish and healthy coral. The water visibility was excellent in the dry season, and the guide pointed out a few spots that the boats rarely stop at. If you have never snorkeled, this is a forgiving place to start, because the water is warm and the current is gentle.
Eat Fresh at the Local Markets
Sihanoukville is a fishing town under all the new construction, and the seafood proves it. My favorite move was walking the market near the port in the late afternoon, when the day’s catch came in fresh. I picked up grilled squid, river prawns and the local fish amok, all for a few dollars, and ate it with coconut and steamed rice. One evening I joined a khmer cooking class that took me to the market to buy ingredients, which taught me more about the cuisine than any restaurant dining room could.
Push Past the Busy Core
Honest advice: the main strip is loud, dusty and under construction, and it is not where the magic lives. In my first day I walked downtown once and never needed to go back. The real Sihanoukville is at the water’s edge, in the fishing piers, the beach front restaurants and the small villages on the road to Otres. Rent a motorbike if you ride, and chase the coastline south of town, where the road hugs the sea and the crowds disappear.
Catch a Sunset from the Water
My last evening in town I joined a sunset cruise that motored out to a sand bar between the islands. We dropped anchor, swam in the silky calm water and watched the sky turn from gold to pink while the day boats returned to port. It was quiet, easy and genuinely lovely, and it gave me a completely different picture of this coastline than the busy downtown had. Bring a light jacket if you go late, because the sea breeze can turn cool after dark.
Plan Around the Dry Season
Timing matters more here than almost anywhere else I have traveled in this region. I visited in the cool dry months and had calm seas, clear water and sunny days almost the whole time. From about June through September the rain comes hard, boat schedules get unreliable, and the islands can be cut off entirely. If you can, aim for the shoulder months, when the weather still holds but the prices drop. Whatever you choose, keep a flexible schedule, because the sea is the boss here.
Balance the Town With the Islands
The best way to enjoy Sihanoukville is to treat it as a jump off point rather than a destination in itself. I did three nights, using the town for food and logistics and spending my days on the water and the islands. That split gave me everything I wanted without wearing out my patience on the busy streets. The beaches and islands carry the trip, so give them the majority of your time. For a fast and practical dose of Cambodian coastline, Sihanoukville delivers, as long as you point yourself toward the boats and the quiet, sandy edges of it all.
