Things to Do in Phnom Penh (Cambodia)

I did not know what to expect when I landed in Phnom Penh. Most travel writing about Cambodia skips straight to Angkor, so the capital caught me off guard. It is a city that sits right on the Mekong, loud in the morning with scooters and quiet by the river at dusk, and it has more layers than any map suggests. After a week of wandering, here are the things I actually did and would do again.

Start at the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

I started my first morning at the Royal Palace on Samdech Sothearos Boulevard, and I would tell any first timer to do the same. The throne hall and the surrounding pavilions are covered in tiles and gold paint that glow against the heat. Right next door, the Silver Pagoda holds a floor made of thousands of solid silver tiles and an emerald Buddha carved from a single piece of jade. Plan to go early, before the tour groups fill the courtyard and before the midday sun makes the walk heavy. Budget about two hours so you can move at your own pace.

Face the past at Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields

Phnom Penh is not a sentimental city, and no honest list of things to do can skip its hardest days. Tuol Sleng, the former school turned prison, sits a short tuk tuk ride from the center and does not hold back. I walked through the cells in silence, and the brickwork there carries more weight than any museum label can explain. From there I drove to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields about 15 kilometers south, where a stupa of human remains climbs toward the sky. Give yourself a full half day for both, and plan something quiet afterward. Heavy as it is, this part of the trip gave me more understanding of the country than any other stop.

Eat your way around the riverside and Central Market

The riverfront along Sisowath Quay is where Phnom Penh relaxes. In the evening the promenade fills with families, runners, and street food carts, and I found the best $2 noodle bowls of my whole trip from a folding table with a blue plastic awning. Just inland, Central Market with its art deco dome sells everything from gold jewelry to electronics, but the real draw for me was the food stalls tucked along the edges. Try fish amok, a coconut steamed curry, and the street fried noodles cooked to order.

Catch the golden hour at Wat Phnom

For a view of Phnom Penh from the modern side, my favorite walk was along the river and up the hill at Wat Phnom. It sits on the highest point in the city, which is not high at all, but the temple grounds are calm and the monkeys there keep things interesting. I timed my visit for late afternoon, when the light turned the pagoda roof golden and the city below spread out past the swaying palms. It is a short, easy stop that pairs well with a riverside dinner afterward.

Tour the National Museum of Cambodia

The National Museum of Cambodia shares a green garden with the palace and holds the country’s best collection of Khmer sculpture. I spent three hours walking the galleries and still felt I had rushed. The stone figures there, some more than a thousand years old, show the faces and hands of the temples you will visit later in Siem Reap. It does not draw the crowds that Angkor gets, which made it my favorite place to slow down and actually read the history.

Cross the river and see the other side

One afternoon I paid a small fare to cross the Tonle Sap and ride toward the silk island communities near the river bend. It is the kind of thing that does not appear on many day one lists, but it showed me farming villages, weaving workshops, and a pace of life that felt a world away from the capital’s traffic. If you have a spare half day and want to see how people actually live along the water, I recommend it.

Get around like a local

Getting around Phnom Penh is part of the fun. I used tuk tuks constantly, agreed on the fare before climbing in, and leaned on the Grab and PassApp ride apps when haggling ran me down. The city blocks cluster fairly close together, so I walked more than I expected once the morning heat passed. For the palace, museum, Wat Phnom, and the riverfront, your feet and a few short rides will cover everything.

Practical tips I wish I had known

A few things saved me real trouble. Carry small bills in US dollars, because Cambodia uses US currency on top of the riel and drivers rarely have change for big notes. Pack a hat and water for the midday hours. And respect the dress code at the palace and pagodas, where knees and shoulders need to stay covered. If you stay in town, the Russian Market area draws a younger crowd for food and souvenirs.

Phnom Penh gave me far more than I expected. The meals were honest, the riverfront was alive, and the history gave me a country I did not really understand before I came. If you have two days in the capital, this list will carry you through the best of it, and leave you ready for the temples.