Things to Do in Penghu, Taiwan: Islands, Basalt and Sea

Penghu is an archipelago of about ninety small islands in the strait between Taiwan and mainland China, and it feels like a different country from the mainland. Wind scoured, sandy, and dotted with dramatic basalt sea cliffs, it is Taiwan’s answer to a laid back island escape. I have spent quiet weeks hopping between these islands by ferry, and the slow, salty rhythm of the place has stayed with me. Here is what I think deserves a place on your list.

Walk among the basalt columns at Kuibishan

The single image that defines Penghu is the basalt columns, vast cliffs of geometric stone formed by ancient volcanic flows. The best and most famous spot is Kuibishan, a towering natural wall that looks like stacked organ pipes rising from the sea. I have stood at its base and felt very small. Nearby, the nearly flat island of Xiyu has a dramatic cliff called the Whale’s Cave, and the Daguoyei viewpoint offers ocean views across the columns. Plan for dry, calm days, and the stone glows beautifully in late light, turning from gray to warm gold as the sun drops.

Swim at the famous beaches

Penghu’s beaches are often compared to the tropics, and the comparison is deserved. Shanshui is a long, gentle curve of pale sand and turquoise water, my favorite for a lazy swim. Jibei on the north side is calm and shallow, perfect for families with small children, while the outer island of Qimei has a lovely beach of its own from which I have watched the sun come up. Because the islands get less traffic than the mainland, I have often had wide stretches of sand almost completely to myself, shading under a small umbrella and letting the hours drift. The water is clear and the color rivals much farther reaches of the Pacific, which always surprises first time visitors.

Snorkel and dive the coral reefs

Out around the smaller islands, the coral reefs are healthy and full of life. Penghu’s best snorkeling tends to lie on the wind protected side of certain islands, so I always check the swell first. There are guided boat tours that take you to the best spots and drop you right into the coral gardens, which is perfect if you are new to snorkeling. For experienced divers, some of the deeper sites reward you with interesting wreck and reef life and excellent visibility on calm days. Bring your own mask and fins if you can, and respect the reef by keeping your distance from the coral so it stays healthy for the next visitor.

Ride the sea: kayaking and sightseeing boats

The islands are best seen from the water, and I never skip a boat day. Ferry routes connect the main islands to the outer ones, where quiet beaches and tiny fishing villages await. Kayaking along the coast in the evening, when the wind dies down and the water turns flat and glowing, has been one of the most peaceful experiences of my trips, with nothing but the sound of my paddle. There are also glass bottom boat tours that give a lazy look at the underwater world without getting wet. A little time afloat adds a completely different layer to your trip than what you see from the roads.

Explore fishing villages and old stone houses

The villages of Xiyu and the northern islands hold clusters of low stone houses built from coral and local rock, some with old wall murals, mossy courtyards, and tiny temples at the center of each hamlet. I have spent whole afternoons just wandering these lanes, meeting fishermen, and photographing the weathered doors and the cats that lounge in the shade. On Qimei, the traditional double heart shaped stone weir, used for trapping fish with the tides, is a gentle and famous sight that works best at low water when the stone walls stand clear. These quiet corners, more than any list, are what give Penghu its soul and keep me coming back.

Eat Penghu’s coastal food

Penghu is surrounded by rich waters, and the food reflects it. I still remember the fresh squid and oysters in every seafood restaurant, along with a local cold noodle dish with cured fish that I have yet to find anywhere else. Salted fish, squid jerky, and the region’s prized seaweed in soups all round out the tables, and the flavors stay with me long after I leave. Every evening I end with a stroll along the harbor, where the grills smoke and the smell of the sea mixes with dinner cooking. It is simple, honest food that I crave between visits, and I always leave room for one more plate of oysters before I fly home.

Windsurfing and the annual kite festival

Thanks to its constant breeze, Penghu is also one of Taiwan’s main wind sports spots. In the right months, the shallow lagoons turn into windsurfing and kitesurfing grounds, The turbulence draws some of the island’s famous kite flying and wind displays, and the festivals that gather here over the year turn the beach into a moving canvas of color. If you have ever wanted to try a wind sport, this is one of the most accessible places in the country to take a lesson, and the warm water takes the sting out of falling in.

My closing advice

Penghu asks you to slow down. Give it at least three or four days so you can see the basalt cliffs, swim in the clear water, and still leave room for wandering without a plan. Rent a scooter or small car to move between sights, pack for wind and sun, and be flexible with the weather, since a rough sea can shuffle your ferry plans. I have returned to Penghu eager to keep exploring its quiet islands, and I think you will feel that same pull.