Things to Do in Pemba Island: A Wild Spice Isle
Rule out expectations of a slick resort island and Pemba rewards you with the wildest, most unpolished corner of the Zanzibar archipelago I have ever visited. Much quieter than its famous cousin, Pemba is a green, hilly island where cloves still hang in the trees, the diving is legendary and life moves at the pace the ocean allows. Here are the things I loved most on my time there.
Dive the Pemba Channel
The single biggest reason divers come to Pemba is the Pemba Channel, regarded by many guides as among the best diving in the Indian Ocean. The drop offs here fall away into deep blue water, and the current feeds a parade of big life, schools of barracuda, eagle rays, turtles, and at the right time, whale sharks and mantas. I did my most thrilling drift dives of the year here, flying along the wall with visibility out to what felt like forever. Bring your A game, these are not gentle beginner reefs, but the payoff is enormous.
Explore Misali Island
A short boat ride off the west coast, Misali Island is a protected marine sanctuary with forests, dunes and a lovely beach day destination. I spent a full day here, snorkelling along the reef, walking the empty shore and climbing to the little lighthouse for a view across the turquoise water. It is run as a conservation area, so entry fees go back into protecting the ecosystem. The snorkelling right off the beach is gentle and teeming with colourful fish, perfect for easing into the archipelago’s underwater world.
Wander the Spice Farms
Pemba is the source of much of the world’s cloves, and walking a spice farm is a highlight I did not expect to love so much. A guide walked me through rows of clove trees, vanilla vines, cinnamon, pepper and nutmeg, letting me smell, taste and touch everything along the way. The forest air mixes with sweet spice scents, and the guides tell stories of how the island’s name became woven into the global spice trade. It is gentle, fascinating and deeply rooted in where Pemba’s history actually lives.
Paddle the Mangroves in the West
The western coast holds a maze of mangrove forests that are best seen by kayak at high tide. I hired a boat and guide and drifted through channels where the green canopy closed overhead and mangrove roots arched into the water. Herons stood watch, crabs scuttled, and the quiet was total. It is a completely different side of Pemba from the deep blue channel, all dark greens and slow water, and I found it unexpectedly moving. Go at dawn if you can, when the light and the birds are at their best.
Swim and Walk the Wild Beaches
Pemba’s beaches are not manicured stretches of white sand in the way of northern Zanzibar, and that is precisely their charm. I walked miles along the east coast almost entirely alone, past fishing villages, low tide tables and palms leaning over the sea. In places you can wade across the sand spit to tiny mangrove islands at low tide. It is raw, quiet and beautiful, and if you like empty horizons, you will be in heaven. Many lodges sit right on these strips, so the day starts and ends with the tide.
Hike Ngezi Forest Reserve
In the far north, Ngezi Forest Reserve protects a remnant of ancient forest full of giant fig trees and rare wildlife, including the endemic Pemba fruit bat and the Pemba scops owl. I took a guided walk through the cool green interior, craning my neck at the canopy and listening to bird calls. Forest bathing does not really describe it, this is gorgeous, living woodland that feels a world away from the coast ten minutes down the road. Come quietly and let a guide point out what would otherwise hide overhead.
Meet Local Life and Markets
Beyond nature, the everyday culture of Pemba is part of the reward. I spent an evening in the old town of Chake Chake, walking the narrow streets and small markets, and a morning watching the fishing boats come in at Wete. People were warm and curious, and settling into a low key guesthouse over a plate of freshly caught fish and rice felt more like staying with the island than visiting it. Follow the rhythm, stay flexible, and let the island set the pace.
Pemba asks a little patience and gives back a great deal. It has world class diving, quiet forests, spice scented farms and beaches where you are often the only footprint. For me it was the most authentic and memorable island of the whole archipelago, and I would take its rough edges over any polished resort.
Try the Local Food
Pemba’s cooking deserves its own story. Fresh fish and octopus arrive daily, served with pilau, coconut rice and spicy sauces that warm without overpowering, while fruit hangs ready from the trees. I ate my way through tiny local kitchens and lodge tables alike and never once had a dull meal. It is honest, bright food that matches the island itself.
