Things to Do in Ottawa: My Guide to the Capital
I have wandered Ottawa for years, and it still manages to surprise me. People write it off as a government town, then they spend one weekend here and change their tune. The city runs along the Ottawa River, with Parliament sprawled across the hill, and there is more to do than most travellers expect. This is my list of the things I always send first time visitors to do, the ones I would do again myself.
Walk Parliament Hill and the Grounds
Start at the Centre Block, even if you only photograph the copper roof from the lawn. The Gothic Revival towers are striking on a clear morning. I time my visit so I can catch the Changing of the Guard in summer, which runs most mornings. You can also join a free tour of the Peace Tower and the House of Commons if you book ahead online. The view from the observation deck over the river and the Gatineau Hills is worth the security line.
Skate or Walk the Rideau Canal
In winter, the Rideau Canal becomes the world’s longest skating rink, and it is my favourite thing in the city when it opens. I rent skates at the stands by the locks, grab a beavertail from a vendor, and glide from downtown toward Dow’s Lake. If you come in summer, the same path works for a long walk or a bike ride, past the park benches and the boats moored along the edge. Either season, this ribbon of water is the soul of the city.
Browse the ByWard Market
ByWard Market is part food hall, part neighbourhood, part chaos, and I love it. The stalls under the covered market sell cheeses, maple syrup, and local produce. I go early to dodge the crowds, then eat my way through lunch: a shawarma, a crepe, a poutine. In the evening the same streets fill with patios and buskers. Even if you are not shopping, stand near the main building and let the smells decide your dinner.
Climb to the Top of the Peace Tower
For the best photo in Ottawa, ride the elevator to the Peace Tower’s observation deck. The city fans out below you, with the canal cutting a blue line through the neighbourhoods and the Gatineau hills on the horizon. I go on a clear day, because the view matters. Be ready to go through security screening at the visitor entrance, and allow a bit of time for the tour to start.
Spend an Afternoon at the National Gallery of Canada
The National Gallery sits behind a giant bronze spider called Maman, and people always stop to stare on their way in. I should warn you, the building is bigger than it looks, so give yourself two hours or you will rush. The Group of Seven landscapes are the highlight for me, those sweeping Canadian wilderness scenes that look better in person. Entry lines move fast, and the gift shop has better souvenirs than most.
Visit the Canadian War Museum
This is a heavy place, and I do not recommend it as a casual stop. The Canadian War Museum tells the country’s military history with honesty, from the trenches to peacekeeping. I always leave with a lot to think about. The LeBreton Flats location is quiet and modern, and the Regeneration Hall, where the morning sun falls in a beam across the old concrete, stays with me.
Cruise the Ottawa River
One of the easiest ways to see the city is from the water. Several operators run boat tours that take you past the Parliament buildings, the locks, and the Rideau Falls. I take the two hour river tour when the weather cooperates, because you get a view of the city that no street will give you. Bring a jacket, the wind on the river picks up quickly.
Explore the Museum of Nature
Housed in a castle like building that used to be a government office, the Canadian Museum of Nature is a favourite for families and for anyone who likes a good skeleton display. The dinosaur gallery is the draw, with complete mounted specimens that tower over you. I also like the mammal gallery upstairs, arranged by habitat. It is an easy way to spend a rainy afternoon.
Eat Your Way Across the City’s Neighbourhoods
Beyond the market, Ottawa’s food scene spreads across several pockets. The Glebe gives you cafes and brunch spots around a leafy main street. Little Italy does the best pizza and espresso. In Sandy Hill I found some of the best Vietnamese food this side of Toronto. I eat my way across a different neighbourhood on every visit, and that planning is half the fun of being here.
Watch the Sunset at Nepean Point
End your day where the locals end theirs, on the open lookout at Nepean Point. You look right across the river, framed by the Alexandra Bridge on one side and the Parliament towers on the other. I pack a coffee and sit on the stone steps until the lights come on. On clear evenings the whole skyline glows, and it is the quietest, most satisfying way I know to close a day in Ottawa.
