Things to Do in Moroni, Comoros
Moroni is not a place I rushed through. The capital of the Comoros sits on the western coast of Grande Comore, wedged between the Indian Ocean and the black slopes of Mount Karthala. I came for a short stop in the Indian Ocean islands and stayed long enough to feel the slow rhythm of a city that does not perform for tourists. Here is what I did, and what I would do again.
Walk the Old Town and the Medina
I started at the seafront and worked my way into the old quarter. The narrow lanes climb away from the port, close enough that I could smell fish and charcoal smoke from stalls I could not yet see. Whitewashed buildings with carved wooden doors, some dark with age, lean over alleys too tight for a car. I got deliberately lost. Every corner turned up a courtyard, a cluster of kids kicking a ball, a woman balancing a tray of bread fruit on her head. The minaret of the Medina’s mosque rose over everything, and the call to prayer washed down the lanes at dusk. Give yourself a full afternoon here. Comfortable shoes matter more than a guide.
Climb to Mohammed V Mosque
The Mohammed V Mosque, with its pale green domes, sits high above the city near the old palace. I walked up in the late morning heat and regretted the pace, but the view repaid me. From the terrace I could see the whole of Moroni spread to the sea, the minaret of the Friday Mosque jutting up, and Mount Karthala’s dark mass behind the town. Non-muslims are not allowed inside, so I stayed at the edge and respected that. The building is worth the climb for the setting alone, especially at golden hour when the light turns the water to copper.
Shop the Volo Volo Market
Volo Volo is the market I had been told about, and it did not disappoint. It is loud and crowded and brilliant. I wandered the rows of heaped spices, vanilla pods the size of my finger, cloves, cinnamon, and piles of coconuts and bananas. Fishermen haul in the day’s catch by the waterfront, and women sell bread out of enamel bowls. I bought vanilla and a small carved box, and I ate fresh fried fish with rice and a hot green sauce that made my eyes water in the best way. Go early, before the heat and the crowds, and bring small notes in Comorian francs because change is hard to come by.
Day Trip to Mount Karthala
The island’s center belongs to Karthala, an active volcano that looms at over 2,300 meters. The full climb is a two-day slog, and I did not finish it, but I want to be honest about that. I made it partway with a guide from the village of Nioumadzaha Mbeni and walked through dense cloud forest where birds I could not name called from the canopy. The guide warned me it is a serious undertaking, steep in places and easy to underestimate. For most visitors, the half-day option gives you the forest without the summit. Check with local authorities before you go, because the volcano does emit gas and occasionally rumbles.
Visit Itsandra Beach and the Old Fort
Just north of town, Itsandra beach is the classic postcard spot, and unlike many postcard spots it holds up. Black sand is unusual to me, but here it shines under the sun. I swam in calm, warm water and lay on a beach chair under a palm-thatch umbrella. The crumbling old fort of Itsandra sits right there, a leftover from the island’s old sultanate and later colonial years. I wandered the walls at low tide, when the rocks and coral pools underneath are exposed. It is an easy pickup from any tuk-tuk driver in town, and the sunset from the fort walls is the best I saw on the island.
Eat Comorian Food Like a Local
Food became the highlight of my trip. I ate langouste, grilled spiny lobster, at a small beach shack where the only menu was whatever the boat had brought that morning. Mataba, cassava leaves cooked slowly in coconut milk, became my comfort dish, and I had it with rice and plantains at least four times. The street food scene is real, from grilled meat skewers to sweet fried dough sold from baskets. I drank fresh coconut water straight from the husk and tried the local ylang ylang, whose flowers are everywhere and give the air a heavy sweet note I had not smelled before.
Watch the Sunset at the Port
My last evening in Moroni, I sat at the fishing port and watched the boats come in. The pier was packed with dhows and pirogues, red and white and peeling, their crews laughing as they unloaded crates of fish. The sunset turned the whole bay orange, and the call to prayer drifted across the water from the Friday Mosque. It was a quiet moment, no attraction, no ticket, just a city ending its day. That is Moroni. It rewards the slow traveler, the one who is happy to wander, eat, and watch.
Moroni Travel Tips
Moroni is an authentic African and island city, but plan carefully. There is a small airport on the island with limited direct flights, and most visitors arrive through Addis Ababa, Nairobi, or Mayotte. Cash is king, so bring enough Comorian francs for markets and small eateries. Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses to a couple of beachfront hotels. Latex gloves, water, and a dash of patience go further than any guidebook. Come for the calm, the markets, the volcano, and the food, and you will leave like me, already planning the return.
