15 Things to Do in Mahabalipuram, India
Mahabalipuram sits on the Bay of Bengal coast of Tamil Nadu, a small town where 7th century stone temples rise straight out of the sand and the sea. I came here expecting one famous shore temple and instead found a whole open air museum of rock carvings spread across a couple of square kilometres. These are the things to do that made my trip.
Watch sunrise at the Shore Temple
The Shore Temple is the image that defines Mahabalipuram, a pair of pyramids looking right out at the water. I got there before dawn and watched the light break across the bay, the temple silhouetted against a pink and gold sky. It is the single most memorable moment of my whole trip, and it costs nothing extra to see it at first light.
Marvel at the Five Rathas
Just inland, the Pancha Rathas are five monolithic temples carved out of single granite boulders, each shaped like a different chariot. I walked between them and noticed how each one is carved to imitate a wooden building, with joints and beams that were never going to be cut. It is an eerie, fascinating glimpse of architecture that was imagined in stone.
Touch the bas relief at Arjuna’s Penance
Arjuna’s Penance is one of the largest bas reliefs in the world, a single huge rock face carved with elephants, monkeys, gods, and a natural crack that was turned into a river. I stood close and watched the details dance in the sun. The carving fills the whole wall, and it takes a good hour to properly look at all of it.
Find the life sized elephant carving
Not far from the main relief, a life sized elephant stands carved in the round. It looked gentle and heavy, and I thought it was one of the most realistic animal carvings I saw anywhere in India. Most people walk past it on the way to the bigger sites, so it is usually quiet.
Climb to the Krishna Butter Ball
The Krishna Butter Ball is a giant boulder perched on a slope that looks like it could roll away any second. It does not, and locals say it cannot be moved. I took the classic photo underneath it, pretending to hold it up, and then sat on a nearby rock and watched other travellers try the same shot.
Walk the ruins of the Krishna Mandapa
The small Krishna Mandapa cave holds a carving of Krishna lifting a mountain to protect his people, complete with a herd of cows. The carving is playful and full of life. I found the cave cooler than the outdoor monuments and lingered a little longer there than the map suggested.
Explore the lighthouse rock
Old Mahabalipuram Lighthouse sits on a rocky outcrop above the town, and the climb up gives you a full view over the ruins and the sea. The lighthouse itself is not open to visitors, but the viewing rock around it is, and the panorama is superb. I went in the late afternoon when the light was soft.
Chase the waves at the beach
Mahabalipuram has a wide, dark sand beach that is very different from Goa. I walked it in the morning and evening, when local families and fishermen were out. The water is not great for swimming because of the currents, but the beach is perfect for a stroll with a fresh coconut in hand.
Try fresh seafood by the shore
The coastal location means seafood is the star of the menu. I ate grilled prawns and fish curry at a simple restaurants near the water, and it remains some of the best food I ate in Tamil Nadu. Ask the locals where they eat, because the best places are not always the most famous ones.
See the sculptures being made at the workshops
Mahabalipuram is still a working centre of stone carving. I wandered past open workshops where sculptors were shaping new statues with the same techniques their ancestors used. You can watch the craft, talk to the carvers, and buy a small piece directly. It gave the old town a surprisingly living feel.
Visit the Ganesha Ratha
Smaller than the famous five rathas, the Ganesha Ratha is a charming little shrine carved in the late 7th century, later dedicated to Ganesha. It sits slightly apart, usually calm and quiet. I had it almost to myself and admired the simple elegance of its lines.
Haggle in the granite bazaar
The shops along the main street are heavy on stone statues, small carved gods, and jewellery. Bargaining is expected and pleasant. I bought a small carved elephant and a stone Ganesha, and the process of agreeing on a price with the craftsman was as good a souvenir as the pieces themselves.
Take the group of monuments ticket
Mahabalipuram’s sites are covered by a combined ticket that gets you into the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, and the bas reliefs. It is good value and saves you queueing at each gate. I bought one and used it across two days, which is the relaxed way to do the town.
See the town by foot and by cycle
The main monuments are close enough to walk, but the outlying ones like the Five Rathas are a pleasant cycle ride away. I rented a bicycle for a morning and covered the whole circuit comfortably. The streets were flat, the coastal breeze cool, and it beat the heat a hundred times over the alternatives.
Give it more than a day
Most people visit Mahabalipuram as a day trip from Chennai, an hour and a half away. I would gently push back on that. Give it two days and a night. The town relaxes beautifully after the day trippers leave, the sunset over the Shore Temple deserves a dedicated evening, and the slow pace is the whole point of the place.
