Things to Do in Gondar, Ethiopia: Castles and More

Gondar is called the Camelot of Africa for good reason. It was the capital of the Ethiopian empire in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and the stone castles that survive in its centre make it one of the most unusual cities in the country. Most travellers pass through on the northern historical circuit with just a day to spare. I stayed two nights and used every hour. The town sits at about 2,200 metres, so the air is cooler than the lowlands, and the dry season between October and March is the easiest time to move around. Here is how to make the most of it.

Walk the Fasil Ghebbi Royal Enclosure

The star of Gondar is the Fasil Ghebbi, a walled compound full of castles and palaces built by Emperor Fasilides and his successors. You walk in through the main gate and the scale hits you immediately. Fasilides’ castle is the big one, a stone tower that looks like it belongs in a fairy tale, and around it sit the palace of Iyasu, the library, the chancellery, and a row of ruined buildings. Set aside at least two hours. The site rewards slow walking A circuit around the outer walls takes you past the ruined summer house and the remains of the stables, which most groups skip. Climbing the main tower stairs is worth it for the view over the rooflines of Gondar towards the mountains., and there are guides at the gate who know the story of every wall. Go in the morning to beat the heat and the tour groups.

See Debre Berhan Selassie Church

Within a short walk of the castles is Debre Berhan Selassie, and I will say it plainly: this is one of the most beautiful churches in Africa. The outside is modest, but the ceiling is painted with row upon row of angel faces, so many that they seem to multiply the longer you look. The walls are covered in biblical scenes done in a distinctive Ethiopian style. The custodian will walk you through the paintings and point out details you would definitely miss on your own. Photographs of the interior are controlled, so just look and let it stay in your memory. The church is still an active place of worship, which adds to the atmosphere.

Compare the Other Palaces and the Bath

Gondar spreads its history around. The Fasilides Bath, a stone sunken pool where the emperor is said to have bathed, sits a short drive from the enclosure and is a photogenic spot with its worn stone and clear water. Further out are the ruins of the Qusquam complex and the remains of a palace built over the town, all less visited than the main site but interesting for the same reason: they show how big this capital really was. If you have a driver, ask them to stop at the viewpoints overlooking the city. Each ruin adds a layer to the same story.

Get Into the Market

The main market of Gondar is huge, sprawling over a wide area, and it is where the city feels most alive. I wandered the stalls selling spices, cloth, coffee, and hardware, and the professionals there, the people who can carry whole baskets on their heads, put my own life to shame. Go with a local guide or a trusted driver if you want to shop seriously, because knowing what things cost helps. Coffee is the thing to buy, and freshly roasted beans fill the whole street with scent. Ethiopian coffee is a tradition in its own right, and Gondar is a good place to taste it properly.

Take a Day Trip to the Simien Foothills

Gondar sits on the edge of the highlands, and a proper day trip can take you into the foothills that roll toward the Simien Mountains. The landscape changes fast from the heat of the city to cool green valleys. You may spot the endemic gelada monkeys, the ones with the red chests, along the escarpment. I arranged mine through my hotel and a local guide, and it was the highlight of the second day. A driver who knows the mountain roads is essential, because the tracks are rough and the weather can turn. Even a short drive into the countryside gives you a sense of why this region was worth ruling.

Plan Your Time

One rushed day covers the enclosure, the church, and little else. Give Gondar two nights and you can see the main castles, the bath, the market, and still have time for the countryside. The town is compact and safe to walk in daylight, and most hotels can arrange a guide and driver. The castles are the reason to come. The rest is the reason to stay.