14 Things to Do in Florianopolis, Brazil
Florianopolis is half island, half city, a place where you can spend the morning on a world class surf beach and the afternoon on a forest trail, all without a long drive. Locals call it Floripa, and they guard it like a secret worth keeping. I spent eight days here and never felt the urge to leave. Here is everything I would do again.
Surf Joaquina Beach
Joaquina is the island’s most famous break, a long sweep of sand where the swell rolls in reliably. I rented a board, took a lesson from a local, and spent hours in the water. Even on calm days the setting is spectacular, with a string of small dunes behind the sand. It works year round, but the best waves come with the shoulder seasons.
Do the sunset at the Lagoa da Conceicao viewpoint
The lagoon is the island’s center of gravity, and the trail up to the viewpoint over it is the classic reward. I climbed in the late afternoon and watched the sun sink over the water with the whole lagoon spread below me. It is a proper workout, so bring water and sturdy shoes. The payoff is one of the best views on the island.
Wander the Azorean fishing villages of the south
The south of the island holds a string of small villages settled by Azorean immigrants centuries ago. I walked the lanes of Ribeirao da Ilha, with its quiet church and old stone houses, and felt the years of history. It is a calm, atmospheric corner that feels far from the surf beaches. The seafood restaurants along the water are a reward in themselves.
Try the island’s signature seafood stew
Called sequencia de camarão here, a tasting of shrimp dishes in sequence is a Floripa tradition. I sat down at a waterfront spot and worked through shrimp prepared several ways, grilled, breaded, and in a rich sauce. It is generous, delicious, and quintessentially local. Go hungry, because the portions do not hold back.
Hike the dunes at Joaquina and the Lagoa trail
Beyond surfing, the area around Joaquina hosts a stretch of dunes that are fun to walk even without sandboarding. I hiked the ridge line with the ocean on one side and the lagoon on the other. It is a beautiful, easy way to see how the island connects its water bodies. Bring sunscreen, because there is barely any shade.
Visit the Hercilio Luz Bridge and city center
Crossing back to the mainland side, the Hercilio Luz Bridge is the city’s grand old suspension structure, and the downtown around it holds a historic core. I walked along the waterfront and through the old streets, and caught the bridge lit up after dark from the quiet viewpoint. It is the city side of Floripa, and worth an afternoon.
Take a boat tour of the island’s hidden beaches
Many of the island’s best swimming spots are only reachable by boat. I joined a slow sailing trip that stopped at small coves and beaches where the water was impossibly clear. Pack a mask, because the snorkeling at the right spots is excellent. It is the easiest way to see the coastline the roads cannot reach.
Watch the sunset at Praia Mole
Praia Mole is the livelier neighbor to Joaquina, with green hills rising from the sand and a great sunset scene. I found a spot on the rocks as the sky turned orange and the beach parties warmed up behind me. It has a fun, youthful energy, and the setting is gorgeous. Get there a little before sunset to grab a good place.
Explore the trails of Lagoa do Peri Natural Park
This freshwater lake is protected inside a forest park, and its quiet trails are a perfect escape from the crowds. I walked a loop through the forest, stopped at the lake’s edge, and swam in the calm freshwater. It is a cooler, greener side of the island. Bring bug repellent, especially near the water.
Sandboard the dunes of the north
The northern part of the island has steeper dunes where sandboarding is a real thrill for those who want it. I gave it a try and, after a few tumbles, managed a wobbly ride down. It is silly, fun, and totally optional, but it is a memory. Shoes with a good grip matter more than you would think.
Eat pastel de nata with a sea view
Portuguese influence shows up in the food, and the custard tarts here are superb. I sat at a beachside stand eating a warm pastel with a coffee and watching the waves. It is a simple pleasure that sums up the island’s easy mood. Morning is the best time, when the tarts come out fresh.
See the seesaw of the island from Campeche Island
A short boat ride offshore, Campeche is a small island with ancient rock carvings and beaches that feel remote. I spent a day there, swam, and hiked up to the carved rock panels. The boat ride is short and the vibe is relaxed and unhurried. Check availability ahead, since visitor numbers are limited to protect the site.
Practical notes for your visit
The island shines from October to April, when the water is warmest, though this is also the busy season. A car is by far the easiest way to hop between beaches and the north and south coasts. Book accommodation ahead in summer. And pack for both beach and trail, because on any given day you will want to do both.
Florianopolis has the rare combination of gorgeous beaches, real surf, and a sense of place you feel in the food and the villages. I came for the water and stayed for the whole island. It is the best of Brazil in one place.
