Things to Do in Evora
I reached Evora in the early evening, after a drive across the flat golden plains of the Alentejo, and the town rose out of the landscape like something built on purpose. It is a place that stacks its history in clear layers, Roman walls under whitewashed streets, a medieval cathedral standing almost shoulder to shoulder with a temple that predates it by a thousand years. It rewards slow walking and it rewards patience. Here are the things I would do again in a heartbeat.
Stand Before the Roman Temple
The Templo Romano de Evora is the reason many people come, and it earns every word of its reputation. A row of tall Corinthian columns stands in the middle of the town, its honey colored stone glowing warmly in the late afternoon sun. It is one of the best preserved Roman temples in the Iberian peninsula, and it sits on a small stone platform that lifts it cleanly above the bustle of the street around it. I have come back to it at three different times of day, and I can tell you the best hour. Come at the end of the day, when the crowds thin and the low sun turns the columns a deep gold. You will not want to walk away quickly.
Walk Through the Capela dos Ossos
Inside the Church of Sao Francisco you will find the Capela dos Ossos, a chapel lined with the skulls and bones of thousands of monks, arranged in patterns along the walls and ceiling. It is macabre and, in an odd way, strangely peaceful, and the inscription over the door sets the somber tone. There is no way to soften it, so I will just say it plainly. If a room built from human bones sounds like your kind of thing, you will be moved and taken aback all at once. If it sounds too much, you can walk on past. I would give it fifteen minutes and an open mind, because it is one of those experiences you simply will not find anywhere else.
Climb Onto the Cathedral Roof
The Catedral de Evora is a hulking granite building from the twelfth century, and the best part of it is the roof. For a small fee you climb a narrow, spiraling staircase into the guts of the building and come out on top, where you can walk between the vaults and peer straight down onto the streets, the squares and the circle of the Roman temple far below. It is one of the finest skyline views in the Alentejo, and the climb, which is harder than it looks but very doable, is worth every step. Do this on a clear day and bring your camera.
Wander the White Streets
Most of Evora is simply a pleasure to walk through, and I would make the lanes a priority even over some of the monuments. The old town is a gentle tangle of narrow alleys, whitewashed walls, leafy orange trees and hidden patios, all wrapped in the heavy, golden heat of the region. Linger in the squares, watch the old men playing cards in the shade, and let yourself get slightly lost. Getting lost here is never a mistake, because every lane opens onto something small and lovely, a tiled doorway, a quiet garden, a bakery sending out the smell of warm bread.
Eat Like the Alentejo Eats
Evora is a serious food town, and the Alentejo is the heartland of Portuguese country cooking. The classic dish here is pork and clams, an unlikely pairing that works better than logic suggests, and it is the first thing I order every time I visit. The local bread, sheep cheese and dark, flat red wine are all excellent, and the squares fill with tables in the evening as the heat fades. Order the pork and clams, trust the old waiter who recommends the house wine, and you will understand the Alentejo in a single meal. Save room for a pastel with your coffee after.
Day Trips Beyond the Walls
If you have an extra morning, the countryside around Evora is worth leaving the walls for. The megalithic stone circles just outside town, older than some of the monuments in Britain, sit quietly in the fields and are largely ignored by visitors. The surrounding vineyard country also makes for a pleasant drive, with small wineries happy to pour a tasting. Evora is small enough to see the center in a day, so a little time out in the Alentejo outside gives a second, slower dimension to the visit.
Plan Your Day
Evora is compact and entirely walkable, and you can see the main sights in a single rewarding day. Start at the Roman temple in the morning before the tour groups arrive, do the cathedral and the bone chapel in the middle hours, and save the lanes and the squares for a slow, warm afternoon. Then find a table, order the regional food and stay for dinner as the town glows gold. It is one of those places where the loose plan becomes the memory, and you will leave planning your return before you have even reached the car.
