Things to Do in Dali, China
I remember the exact moment Dali won me over. I had been traveling through China for weeks, and I was tired of the big, rushing cities. Then I stood at the edge of Erhai Lake with the Cangshan mountains rising behind me, and the whole scene was so quiet and blue that I stopped moving for a while. Dali has a way of doing that to you. It is slow, gentle, and full of texture, and over the days I spent there I collected a handful of experiences that I would happily repeat.
Wandering the Old Town
The old town of Dali is where most people start, and it is a wonderful place to lose yourself. I loved getting lost in the narrow lanes around the four city gates. The streets are lined with little coffee shops, tie dye studios, and courtyard hotels with flowers spilling over the walls. The Foreigner Street feels touristy, but I still took a pleasant slow walk along it at sunset when the light turned the stone a warm gold. For something more local, I walked toward the vegetable market in the early morning and watched vendors set out fresh greens and wild mushrooms picked from the hills. The old walls and the blue lake visible above the rooftops kept pulling me back for another lap.
Cycling Erhai Lake
No trip to Dali is complete without a day on Erhai Lake. I rented a bicycle in the morning and pedaled along the eastern shore, where the water was a deep, clean blue and the mountains across the bay looked almost painted on. The ride took me through little fishing villages and past temples that hung right over the water, and I stopped often just to listen to the lapping waves. If you have time, take a boat out from the dock near the old town. I found the view of the entire basin from mid lake absolutely worth it, and the cool breeze on the water is a relief even in summer heat. The farmers along the route were friendly, and a few waved as I passed.
Riding Above Cangshan
The Cangshan range is the other big draw, and I think the cable car ride is one of the best value experiences in the area. I took the Zhonghe cable car up and walked along the stone path that hugs the cliffs, past tumbling waterfalls and pine forest. At the higher lookouts the whole of Dali lies spread below you, with Erhai shining in the sun. I noticed my legs ached from the thin, cool air at the top, so I recommend packing a light jacket no matter how warm it feels in town. The silence up there, broken only by birds and the wind, was exactly the reset I needed after the city.
Visiting the Three Pagodas
For history, I made a half day trip out to the Three Pagodas and Chongsheng Temple, just below the mountain. Walking under those graceful white towers against the green hill is the postcard image of Dali for a reason. I moved slowly through the temple courtyards, and the incense and quiet made the whole place feel sacred rather than crowded. Around the back there are paths that reward a wander, and the grounds are large enough that even with other visitors you can find a peaceful corner.
Eating the Local Food
I cannot praise the local food enough. I ate fresh mushroom hotpot at a small place recommended by my guesthouse owner, and the broth was unlike anything I had tasted. Roast goat is a specialty in the surrounding countryside, and I tried it with warm flatbread while sitting at a roadside stall. The best part of Dali food for me was the dairy, especially the soft milk cakes they grill over charcoal and dust with sugar. Simple, warm, and delicious. I also drank a lot of the local yogurt, which was the perfect cooler on a warm afternoon.
Day Trips Beyond the Center
One evening I went to the village of Xizhou, about half an hour away, to see the Bai people’s traditional courtyards with their painted walls and flying cornices. It felt more real than the tourist core, and I lingered there until the light faded. I also enjoyed a quiet boat ride around the smaller lake the locals call the miniature Erhai, which is charming and easy on the legs. Both made good additions to a longer stay.
My Advice for Your Visit
My advice is to slow down. Dali rewards the traveler who does not try to see everything in a single day. Give yourself a week if you can, spend mornings on the water and afternoons up in the mountains, and leave evenings free for the food stalls and the slow orange sunset over the old walls. Bring good walking shoes, carry water, and let the pace of the lake set your schedule. I left wishing I had stayed longer, and I know I will be back to see the parts I missed.
