Things to Do in Chennai: A Guide to India’s South Indian Capital
Chennai is a city that does not shout for your attention the way some other Indian cities do. It rewards a slow approach. I spent several days here, wandering its temples, walking its long beach, and eating some of the best food I have had anywhere in India. Here is how I would suggest spending your time in this coastal capital of Tamil Nadu.
Start at the Kapaleeshwarar Temple
I began in Mylapore, the oldest part of the city, at the Kapaleeshwarar Temple. This great draw of South Indian style architecture is dedicated to the god Shiva, and its high, carved tower, or gopuram, is covered in colorful sculptures of deities and scenes. I walked around the courtyard barefoot, past the many shrines and under the shade of the temple tree, and watched the daily rituals unfold around me. The temple is very much a living place rather than a museum, and it gives you an immediate sense of the city’s deep ties to its faith and its traditions.
Walk Marina Beach
One afternoon I walked Marina Beach, one of the longest urban beaches in the world. The beach itself is a wide stretch of sand that runs for miles along the coast, and on the weekend it fills with families, food vendors, and makeshift amusements. I bought a snack from a stall and walked along the waves at dusk as the lights of the city came up behind me. For a quieter stretch of coast, a short drive south takes you to the beaches at Besant Nagar, where I found a more relaxed spot to sit and watch the bay.
Explore Fort St George and the Museum
Chennai grew up around a British colonial fort, and the heart of that history is Fort St George on the waterfront. I wandered the grounds and visited the small church inside, one of the oldest Anglican churches in Asia, where I found a calm, cool interior that felt far from the heat outside. Nearby, the Government Museum and the National Gallery hold a good collection of South Indian bronzes and art, and I spent a rewarding couple of hours looking at the ancient bronze sculptures, some of them masterpieces of Chola workmanship from a thousand years ago.
Visit the San Thome Basilica
A few kilometers down the coast stands San Thome Basilica, a white church built over the spot where tradition holds the apostle Thomas was buried. I walked up to it in the late afternoon and was surprised by how striking it looks, a white neo gothic church rising above the neighborhood around it. The cathedral has a small museum that tells the story of the site, and the peaceful interior was a pleasant contrast to the busy streets outside. It is an easy visit combining history and a quiet moment.
Eat South Indian Food
The greatest pleasure of my time in Chennai was the food. I ate idli and dosa at a traditional breakfast place where the staff served the food on banana leaves, and I drank endless cups of strong South Indian filter coffee, which I recommend to anyone with a sweet tooth. In the evening I tried a proper thali, a full platter of rice, sambar, and several curries, and finished with a sweet payasam. Mylapore and the area around T. Nagar are full of places serving this food. I ate early and avoided the heaviest crowds, and I still think about some of those meals.
Explore the Neighborhoods and Night Markets
Chennai is also a city of neighborhood character, and I made a point of wandering beyond the famous sights. I spent an evening in the markets near T. Nagar, where the stalls sell textiles, jewelry, and electronics under bright lights, and the whole street is full of energy after dark. The city’s temple district in Mylapore comes alive in the evenings too, with oil lamps lit at the shrines and the sound of drums drifting through the streets. For a quieter hour, I walked along one of the small canals and the older neighborhoods that line them, where crumbling colonial buildings sit side by side with newer houses. Later in the night I found a busy food street by the beach and followed the crowd into a stall serving fresh seafood and dosa.
Plan Your Visit Well
Chennai is a major transport hub with its own international airport, and it makes a natural starting point for trips along the coast and to the temples of the region. The winter months from November to February are the most comfortable, while summer is hot and humid. Three days gives you a good feel for the temples, the beach, and the food without rushing. Chennai does not present itself instantly, but that is part of its charm. I left with a full stomach, a set of new favorites, and a real affection for this laid back southern city.
