Things to Do in Cascais
Cascais was a fishing village once, then a royal summer retreat, and now it is one of Europe’s most elegant seaside towns, all of it stacked into one beautiful harbor on the edge of Lisbon. I have spent many days here over the years, and its great charm is that it manages to feel both glamorous and completely relaxed at the same time. There is none of the formality you might expect from a town the royals favored. Here is what I would do with a day or two.
Walk the Seafront Promenade
The best thing in Cascais is free and requires no plan at all. The promenade runs along the ocean from the center of town, past the fortress and the marina, and out toward the sandy beaches beyond. It is the spine of the whole place and the thing I never skip. I have walked it at sunrise with the fishermen who still work the small boats, and at sunset with everyone else, and it never once disappointed. The sea air, the steady sound of the surf, the food stalls and cafes along the way, it all adds up to one of the most pleasant easy afternoons on the Lisbon coast. Make this the very first thing you do when you arrive, because it sets the tone for everything else.
Visit the Fortress and the Marina
At the heart of town sits the Citadel of Cascais, a sturdy fortress that has guarded the harbor for centuries and now houses a beautiful hotel and a serious contemporary art collection. Climb up for the sweeping view over the bay, with the old town spilling down to the water. Right next door is the bustling marina, brimming with yachts and boats, ringed by little terraces where you can sit with a coffee or a glass of wine and simply watch the harbor in motion. The two together, fortress then marina, give you both halves of the town, its long defensive history and its modern, glamorous present, in one easy, pleasant stroll.
Pick a Beach
Cascais sits at the edge of a long sandy stretch of Atlantic coast, and the beaches here come in a couple of distinct flavors. Right in town, the main bays are sheltered and family friendly, with calm, swimmable water in the summer months. Just along the coast the beaches turn wilder and brace against the open ocean, with rolling waves that pull in the surfers. My personal favorite is Praia do Guincho, a wide, dramatic, windswept beach a short drive from town that faces the open Atlantic without any shelter at all. Bring a windbreaker, because the ocean breeze here makes itself known, and you will find one of the most striking stretches of sand on the entire Portuguese coast, a world away in feel from the sheltered town beach but only twenty minutes away in distance.
Take the Cliff Walk and See the Sea Cave
One of Cascais’s best qualities is its position at the very edge of the rugged coastline that runs up toward Sintra. Just south of town, the cliffs drop dramatically into the sea, and a clifftop path gives you one panorama after another over the Atlantic. Not far out on this walk lies the Boca do Inferno, practically a landmark, a dramatic sea cave carved into the cliff where the ocean surges in with a great noise. It is an easy and rewarding stroll from the center of town, and the combination of crashing water and high cliff makes it one of the most memorable things you can do here for free. Do it in the late afternoon for the best light.
Eat by the Sea
Cascais feeds you extremely well, and the seafood is the headline. The restaurants around the marina and through the old quarter serve everything from fresh grilled fish to shellfish and octopus, and there is no shortage of excellent pastries and strong coffee for any hour of the day. Order seafood, try the local green wine, and time your dinner to catch the sunset, when the whole town seems to turn a soft gold and the water turns to glass. Look for a place one street back from the most touristy row for better value and a more local feel. A terrace overlooking the bay at golden hour is, for me, the essential Cascais experience.
Day Trips From Cascais
Cascais is also a perfect base for exploring the surrounding coast and hills. The fairy tale town of Sintra, with its extravagant palaces and misty mountain setting, is a short bus ride or drive away and pairs beautifully with a stay here. The wild beach at Guincho, the resort town of Estoril next door, and the dramatic cliffs further down the coast all sit within easy reach. I have used Cascais as a launch point many times, and the position, moments from Portugal’s most beautiful coastline and its most famous romantic town, is one of its greatest practical advantages. A couple of nights here lets you see a remarkable amount without ever changing beds.
Practical Notes
Cascais is easy to reach from Lisbon, about a forty minute train ride from the Cais do Sodre station, and easy to navigate once you are there, with the town and its main beaches all within walking distance. Wear flat shoes for the promenade and the cobbles. And remember the Atlantic is cold year round, so choose your swim based on courage as much as sunshine. Give it a full day or two, walk the promenade at least twice, eat a long meal by the water, and you will understand exactly why the Portuguese royals chose this spot to build their summer court.
