Things to Do in Capri
Capri has been famous so long that I came expecting a postcard and a crowd. It is both of those things, but it is also one of the most striking islands I have seen, a limestone wedge of cliffs, gardens, and blue water that somehow earns every superlative thrown at it. You need a strategy to get past the cruise ship crush. These are the things to do that made it stick.
See the Blue Grotto Without the Madness
The Blue Grotto is the island’s most famous image, a sea cave where the sun turns the water an impossible cobalt. The classic approach involves queuing in small rowboats and bending low to enter. I did it early in the morning right when the gates opened and found the wait short and the payoff real, the entire cave glowing blue around the boat. Go first thing and skip the mad midday queue.
Take the Chairlift to Mount Solaro
The single best view on the island is from the top of Mount Solaro, reached by a small chairlift from Anacapri. I sat on the rickety chair as it climbed high above the terraced slopes, and at the summit the whole of Capri and the Bay of Naples spread out below me. On a clear day you can even see far down the coast. This is the view that makes the whole trip feel worth it.
Dive Into the Gardens of Augustus
Tucked along the cliffs, the Gardens of Augustus reward you with the famous Terrace of Infinity, where the view drops straight down to the turquoise water and the Faraglioni rock formations. I walked the flower lined paths and stood a long time taking in the boats below. The gardens are small, so pair them with the nearby Via Krupp, a remarkable cliffside footpath, when it is open.
See the Faraglioni Rocks
The three Faraglioni rock towers rising from the sea are Capri’s symbol, and you see them best from the water. I took a small boat ride that looped around them and, on a fearless moment, through the arch on the largest rock. The base of the cliffs is where the deep blue water and the light show off. Go by kayak or boat to appreciate the scale.
Wander Marina Grande and the Island Towns
Capri has two small towns doing different jobs. Marina Grande is the port, all ferries and fish restaurants, while the main square of Capri town sits high above and hums with designer shops and cafes. I wandered between the two on foot along the winding lanes, stopping for the views and the window displays. Anacapari, quieter and higher, holds the local flavor.
Eat Farfalle, Fresh Fish and Limoncello
The food on Capri is simple and very good. I ate pasta with fresh squid and local tomatoes at a small trattoria in Anacapri and finished with the island’s limoncello, a bright lemon liqueur that comes cold from the freezer. The lemon groves and the caprese salad with its mozzarella and tomatoes both trace back to this island. Eat local and you will not be disappointed.
Take the Funicular and the Steps to the Villa
The funicular carries you up from the port to the town square in minutes, an easy way to start. From the square I walked down the many steps toward the remains of Villa Jovis, Emperor Tiberius’s hilltop palace, which claims some of the most dramatic cliffside views on the island. The climb is worth the leg burn, and the history adds a layer the shopping streets do not have.
Rent a Boat or Kayak Along the Coast
Capri’s coastline is its real treasure, and the water is wasted on a ferry. I rented a small boat for the afternoon and circled the island, pulling into quiet coves where the water looked like glass. Kayaking through the arches gave me a different, slower relationship to the cliffs. Any time on the water beats the crowded paths above, so I built my afternoon around the boat and never once regretted leaving the shopping street behind.
Plan Your Time in Capri
Capri works beautifully as a long day trip from the mainland or as an overnight once the day visitors leave and the lanes empty to local cafés. I stayed the night and had the whole island to myself at first light. The ferries from Naples and Sorrento run regularly, and the island shrinks once the boats dock in the evening. Wear shoes with grip for the cobbles and the steps, carry cash for the small boats and shops, and book the chairlift and grotto early. Capri is small, crowded, and absolutely worth it, because the cliffs and the blue water do something to me that the postcards never quite managed.
