Things to Do in Asturias
My favorite things to do in Asturias, Spain, from cider houses and coastal hikes to mountain villages and prehistoric cave art.
Start in Oviedo and Eat a Fabada
I began my Asturias trip in Oviedo, and it was the right call. The old town is compact, so I covered the cathedral, the font where the inverted Bible rests, and the long promenades in an afternoon. Asturian food demands attention, and I made my first fabada, the white bean stew with chorizo and morcilla, at a small cider house. The dish is heavy in the best way and set the tone for every meal that followed. We hear so much about Spanish food in the south that the north gets forgotten, but Asturias quietly holds some of the most comforting cooking in the country.
Understand the Cider Culture
Every meal in Asturias seems to come with cider, and learning the pouring ritual made the whole region click for me. The sidra is dry and lightly sparkling, and it must be poured from a height so it hits the glass with a splash that brings out its fizz. In a traditional cider house the barman holds the bottle high above his head and pours a single glass at a time, and you are expected to drink it before it goes flat. I finally stopped trying to pour it myself and just enjoyed watching the locals show me the way. The custom turns even a simple drink into a small performance.
Visit the Cueva de Tito Bustillo
The prehistoric cave paintings at Ribadesella are among the best preserved in Europe, and they are the closest I came to time travel. You need a ticket booked in advance, and the guided tour keeps groups small because the rooms are narrow. The horses and deer painted in red ochre feel startlingly modern, and the effect of the dark chamber with a torch beam is impossible to forget. As the guide pointed out details I would never have noticed, the sheer age of the art sank in. Check the schedule because the cave closes certain days of the week.
Walk the Cares Route
The Ruta del Cares is the most famous walk in Asturias, and I now understand why. The twelve kilometre path threads between steep limestone walls along a channel that carries water to the hydro plant. I walked the section from Poncebos to Cain and the gorge stayed around me the whole way, with a path cut directly into the rock. It is flat and easy underfoot, but it runs long, so I carried plenty of water and started early to avoid the middle of the day. There is no real shade and no side exits, so stamina matters more than skill. The payoff is a landscape that few other walks deliver.
Explore the Picos de Europa
The Picos de Europa national park gives Asturias its wild edge. I drove up to the lakes at Covadonga, where the turquoise lake surrounded by grey peaks made my phone photos useless because nothing looked real. The weather changed fast, so I packed a jacket even on a warm morning. The road to the lakes is winding and sometimes limited by tickets, so plan ahead. The cable car at Fuente De on the Cantabria side offers a faster way into the high country if you want the views without the climb. In a single day I saw rocky summits, deep forest and quiet grazing valleys.
Hunt for Dinosaurs on the Coast
Asturias holds a long dinosaur coast with footprints and a dedicated museum at Colunga. I stopped at the Museo del Jurasico and then walked the nearby beach looking at the rock floor. It felt strange to picture a creature that size walking where I stood. The coastline itself is dramatic, with cliffs and surf and small fishing villages worth an hour of wandering. The eastern coast in particular gave me the sense of a wilder, emptier Spain that the crowded south has lost. Bring sturdy shoes and simply follow whatever path the sea offers.
Visit the Sea Fishing Villages
The coastal towns deserve their own attention beyond the caves. Ribadesella hangs on a river mouth with a long beach, while Llanes shows off an old town and a string of coves. I spent an unhurried afternoon in Llanes eating fried fish and watching the light change over the water. Each village has its own character, so I stopped for coffee in the morning and for a walk in the evening rather than rushing. The quiet bars fill up with locals at lunchtime, and that is when the cooking shines. Fresh cider one day, a slow beach walk the next, the routine suited me.
Eat Your Way Through the Region
From the calf and potato stew of a village menu to the anchovies on the coast, Asturias rewards a hungry traveller. I never found a bad meal, and the local cheese with honey became an afternoon habit. The cabrales, a blue cheese from the Picos, stinks and works best crumbled over steak or walnuts. The apples of the region turn into both cider and a dessert apple tart that I ordered twice. Slow food, big portions and no rush define the table, and I ate better here than in many of Spain’s celebrated cities.
When to Go
I visited in September, when the crowds thin and the weather stays mild. Summer brings busier trails and higher prices, while winter snow closes some mountain routes. Spring and early autumn give the green valleys their full colour and the mildest walking weather. Pack layers because the coast is cool even in good sun, and always carry a waterproof. Rain is part of the charm, and the breaks between showers bring the freshest views of the whole trip.
Final Thoughts
Asturias turned out to be my favorite region in northern Spain. It has the mountain drama of the alpine north with an Atlantic coastline that few visitors see. The food is honest, the people are patient with my Spanish, and the landscapes keep rewarding another hour. I left wanting to return to walk deeper into the Picos and drink more cider. If you plan a northern Spain route, make sure it passes through here.
