Things to Do in Annecy, France: Lake, Old Town and Alps
If you only see one photo of Annecy it will probably be the canals of the old town, with flower boxes tumbling into the water and the turquoise lake glinting in the background. The picture is accurate. But this Alpine town in eastern France rewards people who do more than stare at it. Between the medieval streets and the mountains that rise straight up from the shore, there is enough to fill several days. Here are the things I did and would happily do again.
Stroll the old town canals
Start in the Vieille Ville, where the small Thiou river splits into canals that run right through the shops and houses. Walk the Rue Sainte Claire and cross the little bridges to watch the water wheel and shopkeepers hosing down their doorsteps. The Palais de l Isle, a small medieval building sitting on its own island in the canal, is the postcard shot. It houses a museum now, and even if you skip the ticket the view of it from the bridges is worth the walk. Morning light is best here, before the tour groups arrive.
Ride a bike around the lake
The lake of Annecy is about 35 kilometres around, and a good portion has a flat dedicated cycle path. I rented a bike and did the loop over a relaxed day, stopping for swims and coffee in the villages on the far shore. If a full loop feels like too much, the section from Annecy to Veyrier du Lac is an easy half day with the best views over the water. The path hugs the shore, so you get constant glimpses of the lake changing color from green to blue as the sun moves.
Climb to the castle
The Chateau d Annecy sits on a hill overlooking the old town and lake. It is a walk up, but the effort pays off in the view from the terraces, where you can see the whole sweep of the lake with the mountains behind it. Inside, the museum covers the local history and the region s crafts. Winter is when the castle really shines as an indoor stop, but in good weather I would plan the climb for the late afternoon and watch sunset over the water.
Swim and paddle on the lake
Annecy is famous for the clarity of its water, and the beaches fill with swimmers the moment the sun appears. The Plage Imperial and the Plage d Albigny are the easiest, both with shallow entries and lifeguards in summer. You can also rent a paddleboard or kayak and get out on the water, which is the best way to appreciate how clean this lake really is. On a hot day I would do both, a morning spent paddling and an afternoon floating near the shore with the mountains as company.
Take the cable car or the mountains beyond
For the grand view, the cable car at Col de la Forclaz is the move, though it is a drive or a bus ride outside town. From the top you look down the whole length of the lake. For something closer, the hike up the Mont Veyrier or the Semnoz gives a fine view over town without a full day commitment. If you have time and legs, the area around is full of Alpine trails that eventually reach the higher peaks above the tree line.
Eat well and know the seasons
Annecy straddles the border of Savoyard cooking, so expect tartiflette, reblochon cheese, and a lot of hearty mountain food that tastes best after a day outside. Sit at a table on the canal when you can. The town is lovely year round, but the lake experience belongs to summer. Spring and autumn bring quieter streets and better tables, while winter is a launch point for nearby ski resorts. Go for the lake in June to September and for the mountains and charm in the shoulder seasons.
Annecy does not need you to work hard at having a good time. You can swim, cycle, climb and eat, or do none of it and still be happy just watching the light move across the water. That is the rare trick of the place, and I suspect you will understand it the minute you arrive.
