Siargao Travel Guide
Siargao is the island that keeps pulling me back to the Philippines. It sits off the east coast of Mindanao, a teardrop of white sand, coconut palms and limestone coves that most people know for one thing: surfing. But the island has far more to offer than waves, and after several trips I still find new corners worth chasing.
Getting to Siargao
The most common route starts with a flight into Siargao’s small airport, which now connects directly to Manila and Cebu on a few carriers. If you are travelling on a budget or want more flexibility, fly to Surigao City instead and take the ferry across. The ferry takes around an hour and a half on a good day and drops you on the northern coast.
Once you are on the island, the main road runs the length of the place and tricycle taxis and motorbike rentals will get you almost anywhere. I rented a motorbike for a few days and it was by far the best way to explore, though the roads get rough in places, so take it slowly.
Where to stay
General Luna is the main base, a stretch of guesthouses, resorts and dive shops centred on the north coast. It is where most first time visitors end up, and for good reason. You can walk to several beaches and the nightlife is simple and friendly.
If you want quiet, I would look at the eastern side of the island around Dapa and the coves beyond. I prefer staying a little outside the main strip. There is nothing like waking up to an uncrowded stretch of sand and watching the fishermen head out at dawn.
Surfing Cloud 9 and beyond
Cloud 9 is the wave that put Siargao on the map, a fast, hollow right hander that breaks over the reef near the southern tip. It is serious surf. When it is big, it is for experienced riders only, and the locals are protective of their break, so respect the lineup and the etiquette.
Beginners should not feel left out. The island has gentler beach breaks on the north coast, and several schools offer lessons and board rentals. I took my first real lessons here years ago and still think fondly of that warm, forgiving water.
Island hopping to the nearby islands
One of the great pleasures of Siargao is how easy it is to reach other islands. Daku and Naked Island are a short boat ride away, offering sandbars and shallow swimming that feel far more remote than they are. I spent a perfect afternoon on Naked Island with nothing but palms, clear water and a packed lunch.
Further out, the Bucas Grande group rewards those with more time. The Sohoton Cove National Park there is famous for its stingless jellyfish, which drift through the still, dark water of the lagoon in thousands. Swimming among them was an experience I did not expect and will not forget.
Food on Siargao
Seafood rules on the island, and I ate some of the best grilled fish of my life at the simple beachside huts along General Luna. Fresh catch is available every day, and the lechon, a roasted pig dish, is a local speciality you should try at least once.
Bars and cafés have multiplied in recent years, so you can now find proper espresso and decent cocktails as well as the classic Filipino dishes. Prices are higher than mainland Philippines for imports, but still reasonable by most standards.
Money and budget
Cash is king on Siargao. Cards work in a few larger hotels and dive shops, but the tricycle drivers, market stalls and most guesthouses want cash, so bring enough from Surigao City because ATMs are limited and occasionally empty.
For a budget traveller, a simple room and daily street food can cost less than you would spend on a single hotel night in a big city. At the other end, the island now has some genuinely lovely boutique resorts if you want to treat yourself.
Practical tips
Pack a good reef safe sunscreen, a rash guard for surfing and snorkelling, and mosquito repellent for the evenings. The water is warm almost year round, so a thin wetsuit only matters if you dive in the cooler months.
Learn a few words of Filipino and treat the locals with warmth. Siargao has changed a lot in the decade since I first came, but its people are still the reason I keep returning. Plan at least four or five days, and I promise you will want more.
Getting around the island
Beyond the motorbikes and tricycles, the island’s boats are the other key to getting around. Local boatmen run trips between the coves, the nearby islands and the dive sites, and prices are easy to negotiate for a day’s charter. I found it worth agreeing a price and route before getting on board so there are no surprises when you return.
The island has no real bus system, so if you do not drive a motorbike, plan to hire a tricycle driver for the day or base yourself within walking distance of where you want to be most of the time.
Diving and snorkelling
Siargao sits near good reef diving, and the dive shops along General Luna run trips to sites with turtle sightings, coral walls and the famous stingless jellyfish lagoon further out. I had my most memorable underwater moments here, floating among clear water and colourful fish within an easy boat ride of town.
If you only snorkel, the coves themselves hold plenty to see close to shore. Bring your own mask if you can, because hire quality varies, and always check the tide before heading out on your own.
