Things to Do in Shimla, India
Shimla was built by the British as a summer escape from the heat of the plains, and that purpose still shapes it today. I arrived on the toy train, climbed the hill to my guesthouse and spent four days being very glad I had not just shown up for an afternoon. The town is steep, walkable and full of colonial leftovers, and it is also the doorway to some wonderful Himalayan countryside. Here is what made it stick for me.
Take the Kalka to Shimla Toy Train
I do not think you should fly or drive to Shimla if you can avoid it. The Kalka Shimla narrow gauge railway is a UNESCO listed line that climbs 1,500 metres through 100 tunnels and over a series of spectacular bridges, and it is the proper way to arrive. I left Kalka in the morning and watched the forest thicken and the air cool as the little train hauled itself up the mountainside. It is slower than the road and it is completely worth it. Book a seat a few days ahead in peak season.
Walk the Mall Road and the Ridge
The spine of Shimla is the Mall Road, a pedestrian street that runs along the hill at a fairly flat height, and the Ridge, a wide open space at its highest point. I walked this route every day, morning and evening, and it never got old. The Ridge has sweeping views down into the valleys and up to the higher peaks, and the band stand and the church add to the colonial feel. On a clear day you can see the snows of the distant ranges, which was the happiest surprise of the trip.
Visit the Viceregal Lodge
At the far end of the Mall Road sits the Viceregal Lodge, the former summer residence of the British viceroys and now a research institute. The building combines Scottish baronial architecture with Indian details, and it houses a small museum about the freedom movement and the modern Indian government. I took a guided tour and learned that the rough draft of India’s constitution was discussed here. The calm gardens are free to wander even if you do not go inside.
Explore Jakhu Temple and the Heights
For the best view in Shimla, climb to the Jakhu Temple above the town. The walk is steep and takes a few hours, but the reward is a panoramic sweep over Shimla and the surrounding hills, and the path through the forest is pleasant even at a slow pace. The monkeys around the temple are bold, so hold onto your snacks. I went in the late afternoon and watched the light move across the valley while the town below began to twinkle.
See the Christ Church and the Old Town
The Christ Church on the Ridge is the most photographed building in Shimla, with its tall spire and stained glass windows that date to the nineteenth century. Below it, the old town spreads down the slope in a tangle of steps, stalls and old wooden houses that feel a world away from the Mall Road. I got happily lost in these lanes and bought more than I intended, including a warm woollen shawl that I still use. Take your time down here, because the character is all in the detail.
Eat Local and Drink the View
Shimla is part of Himachal Pradesh, and the local food is simple and hearty. I had thick lentil dal, fresh green beans cooked with garlic, potatoes spiced with the region’s famous chillies and warm rotis, all of it served with a mountain of steaming rice. For a sweet treat, the bakeries along the Mall Road make a decent apple pie, a leftover of the colonial era that the town has made its own. Sit at a window table and watch the hills change colour as the sun drops.
Plan Your Time and Packing
Give Shimla at least two full days, and three if you want to ride the toy train and do a day trip into the surrounding hills. The town is cool even in summer, so pack layers and a warm jacket for the evenings. In winter it can snow and the Mall Road gets cold, so check the forecast. And wear shoes you can cope with on stairs, because almost every route in Shimla involves them. It is a walking town, and that is not a criticism.
Shimla is not just a colonial relic. It is a living hill town where the railway, the views and the mountain air all pull you in different directions, and I left with the climbing urge I always get when the Himalayas get into your blood.
Take an Afternoon to Kufri and the Surrounding Hills
When the town itself starts to feel like a circuit, a short ride out to Kufri and the higher meadows gives you the countryside of Himachal Pradesh at its most relaxed. I drove up one afternoon and walked through the pine forest and the apple orchards, across open grassland where shepherds moved their flocks in slow arcs. The view back over Shimla, picked out on its ridge from afar, is a reminder of how dramatic the setting is. Anyone who wants a little hiking, or just a quieter patch of green, will find it here without leaving the Shimla area.
