Roppongi Travel Guide
First Impressions of Roppongi
Roppongi gets a bad rap in Tokyo guidebooks. Most first timers hear the word and picture loud nightclubs, pushy touts, and tables of foreigners paying for drinks they never ordered. There is truth in that picture, but it is only a small slice of a district that has quietly grown into one of Tokyo’s most layered neighborhoods.
I arrived on a rainy Tuesday evening, which turned out to be the perfect introduction. The neon towers of Roppongi Hills glowed through the grey, the Mori Tower piercing a low sky. I walked past a tiny yakitori joint wedged between two bars and caught the smell of charred chicken skin and soy. A group of salarymen laughed on a corner. It felt alive, not seedy, and I stayed eleven days longer than I planned.
Why Roppongi Is Worth Your Time
The main reason to come is the view. The Tokyo City View observatory in Roppongi Hills is, in my book, the best skyline experience in the city. It beats the overpriced Tokyo Skytree and the dated Tokyo Tower because it puts the whole metropolis at your feet, from the glowing Tokyo Tower to the lights of Shinjuku burning on the far side of the bay. On clear days you can see Mount Fuji.
The Mori Art Museum lives several floors below the observatory, and the ticket bundles both. The art there changes several times a year and tends toward big, ambitious shows that would feel cramped in a smaller space. Even if contemporary art is not your thing, the top floor bar is worth the trip for a sunset drink with the city spread out below.
Where to Eat Without Getting Ripped Off
Food is where the tourist trap reputation really misleads you. The famous Six Samurai restaurant crawl and the heavy fried food of the gaijin bar strip are easy to find, but every one of my best meals in Roppongi came from small places tucked up staircases or down alleys.
My favorite bowl of ramen in all of Tokyo, which I say knowing how bold that is, sits on a second floor in Roppongi. Look for the narrow stairway with a chalkboard menu and a line of office workers at noon. The tonkotsu broth there is thick enough to stand on and the owner knows half his customers by name. For sushi, a counter-only place near the Izumo Shrine serves what locals actually eat rather than the tourist set menus.
A word of caution. Skip anything with a person standing outside urging you in. If a place needs a tout, the food is rarely the reason people stay. Simple rule that saved me a dozen times.
Finding the Nightlife That Fits You
Roppongi’s nightlife spectrum is wider than people give it credit for. On one end you have the glossy clubs in Roppongi Hills and the international hotels where the sound systems are flawless and the drinks properly pricey. On the other end are the tiny, low-ceilinged bars where you could walk in yelling and no one would raise an eyebrow.
If you want atmosphere over hype, head to the bars that stay open until the first train. Many are third floor walks with a single bartender and a regular crowd. Tell them what you drink and let them work. I found a whiskey bar that poured Yamazaki 12 at a fair price and left at two in the morning feeling like a regular for ten years.
The clubs in the subway underpasses around Nogizaka can be overwhelming if you are not used to Tokyo’s club culture, but the cover charges are honest and the DJs are world class. Go on a weekend, pay attention to your drink, and you have as good a night as anywhere in Asia.
Practical Notes for First Timers
Roppongi is one of the most convenient bases in Tokyo. It sits on the Hibiya line and the Oedo line, with direct trains to Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Ginza. The Narita Express does not reach Roppongi, but the limousine bus from both airports drops you right at Roppongi Hills, which beats dragging luggage through the subway.
Cash is still king at the small places. Big restaurants and museums take cards, but the little ramen shop and the alley bars will want cash, and some of them have a minimum on card payments. Withdraw more yen than you think you need.
The district empties out surprisingly early on weekdays outside the bar zone. Most shops close by nine and the crowds thin fast. Plan your evenings around dinner and the quarter-shock of closing. And always walk with purpose. Roppongi rewards confidence the way any international neighborhood does.
A Few More Roppongi Specifics
One thing that surprised me about roppongi was how film-focused the neighborhood is, given its nightlife reputation. There is the famous cinema community here, several production houses, and a steady stream of premieres. If you keep your eyes open you will spot red carpets, film crews, and actors grabbing quiet meals in the backstreet places. It adds a layer to the district most visitors completely miss.
