Ring of Kerry Travel Guide
The Ring of Kerry is a 179 kilometre loop around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, on the southwest coast of Ireland. It is a single road that links harbour towns, sandy beaches, mountain passes and some of the most photographed scenery in the country. People have driven it for generations, and for good reason. This guide covers how to plan the drive, how long to allow, and the stops worth your time so you can make the most of a trip here.
How the loop works
Most people start in Killarney and drive the loop anti clockwise, which keeps the coach traffic moving in the same direction and gives you the sea views on your side of the road. You can also begin in Kenmare and go clockwise, which is quieter. The full circuit is about three to four hours of driving without stops. Most people spread it over two days, and a full day is the absolute minimum if you want to get out of the car at all. The road is narrow in places, so allow extra time for pulling over at viewpoints and letting the occasional bus pass.
The top stops on the route
Start with the Gap of Dunloe if you like mountain passes, a narrow road between tall rock walls that many walk or cycle. It can be busy with jaunting cars and walkers, so take it slowly. Then follow the road past Moll’s Gap and Ladies View, where the lakes of Killarney fan out below in a view that has not changed for a century. At Killorglin you leave the mountains behind and the coast opens up. Kenmare sits at the southern end, a market town with good food and craft shops. Make time for Valentia Island and the Skelligs visitor centre at Portmagee, and do not skip the stone fort at Staigue, an ancient ring fort perched above the sea.
Where to stay
Killarney is the busiest base and the best connected, and it gives you easy access to the national park as well as the ring itself. Kenmare is smaller and calmer, with a strong food scene and a lovely sense of local life. For a quieter overnight stop, try Sneem, a pretty village with a couple of good pubs, or Waterville, which sits right on the water near the great beaches. Booking ahead in summer is essential, and winter visitors will find many places closed, so check before you travel. A night or two in a small village lets you see the peninsula at a more human pace.
Getting around
A car gives the most freedom on the narrow road, and it is what most visitors choose. Coaches run from Killarney around the loop in summer for those who prefer not to drive, and they take the route anticlockwise to match the flow. Cycling the full 179 kilometres is popular but tough, with long climbs over the passes, and electric bikes make it far more doable for most people. Public buses are limited, so a car or an organised tour is the realistic option for most. Whatever you choose, leave early in the day to stay ahead of the biggest crowds.
Practical tips for the road
Check the road for coaches and overtake only where it is safe and legal, because the passing places are few and the scenery distracts. Fill up with fuel before you leave Killarney, since petrol stations are few on the peninsula. Bring a waterproof layer even on a clear morning, because the Atlantic weather changes quickly. Carry warm clothes whatever the season and a map or a charged phone, since coverage comes and goes in the valleys. Most of all, allow time to take one of the cliff walks near the coast, because the views you get on foot are better than anything you see from the car window.
Eating and drinking along the route
The peninsula serves some of the best seafood in Ireland, and you should make the most of it. Kenmare has restaurants worth booking ahead, while Waterville and Portmagee offer fresh fish straight from the boats. Seafood chowder, crab claws and a fillet of local beef are the staples, and the small pubs pour proper pints. For a simpler lunch, look for the roadside cafes and bakeries that locals use, which serve much better food than the tourist spots at the viewpoints. If you stay a few nights, a market run gives you picnic supplies for the drives between the sights and a welcome break from eating out every meal.
Plan your itinerary
A two day loop lets you see the main sights without rushing: day one from Killarney over the passes to the coast, day two around the southern stretch through Waterville, Sneem and back to Kenmare. Add a day for Valentia Island and the Skelligs boat trips if the weather cooperates. That gives you the Ring of Kerry at a comfortable pace, with time to stop, walk and actually enjoy the place rather than just drive past it.
