Things to Do in Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An gets a mixed reputation, equal parts beach paradise and oversized tourist development, and the truth is it can be both depending on how you plan. I spent a week here with no set itinerary and found that the real Hoi An is much better than its worst reviews suggest. The trick is to get away from the resort strip and onto the boats, into the waters and down the side roads where the fishing village still sets the pace. This is how I would do it again.

Take the Boat to Phi Phi

The single best day you can have in Hoi An is the boat trip out to Phi Phi Islands. The journey itself is part of the fun, a fast ride across open water that lands you on the larger island where the beach village spreads out. From there I walked up to the viewpoint, a steep climb through jungle that pays off with a long view down over the bay. Then I spent the afternoon snorkelling the coral off the quieter side, where the water was clearer than anywhere else I tried in Thailand.

Rent a Longtail for a Private Day

For a completely different day, rent a longtail boat from one of the local fishermen and head out to find your own little island. I did this with a friendly old captain who knew every sandbank and secret cove, and we stopped to swim and eat fresh fruit in water that had maybe one other boat in sight. It cost less than the big day trips and it is the sort of Hoi An experience the adverts never show you.

See the Big Buddha and the Viewpoint

Back on the main land, the Big Buddha landmark and the viewpoint at Karon give you the classic Hoi An photograph. I went up in the late afternoon when the crowds had gone, and the view across the water to the small islands in the distance was the kind of scene you remember for months. The Buddha itself is a local meeting point and a piece of public art, and there is a decent view point here too.

Eat at the Seafood Stalls

Hoi An’s food is built around the sea, and I ate better here than at some places three times the price. The night market along the waterfront serves grilled whole fish, spicy mussels, squid and crab, all of it fresh and cooked over coals while you wait. I sat at a plastic table with the waves behind me and a cold beer in front, and it was the most relaxed I felt all trip. Bring cash, since the stalls do not take cards.

Hire a Scooter for the Back Roads

The interior of the island is far from the resorts, and a scooter is the best way to discover it. I rode through rubber plantations and tiny villages where the road narrowed to a single lane, past mosques and temples and fruit stands that did not exist on any map. Stop whenever something catches your eye. The coconut water and the local seafood sold from roadside kitchens were some of the most memorable things I tasted.

Try the Diving and Snorkelling

The reefs make Hoi An one of the better places in Thailand for underwater life. I took an afternoon snorkel trip and saw coral, reef fish and a sea turtle drifting past, which was the moment everything clicked for me. If you dive, the current and the drop offs make it an interesting site for anyone with a few dives behind them. For a more relaxed option, a mask and fins from any beach shop costs little and covers most of the shallow spots yourself.

Know the Best Time to Visit

Hoi An is at its best between November and April, when the sea is calm and the weather is dry. I visited in April, right at the edge of that season, and got warm days and quiet beaches. The rainy season brings bigger waves, good for surfers but less pleasant for snorkelling or the boat trips. Give yourself at least four or five days so you can do the islands, the coast and the interior without rushing.

Hoi An will not reveal itself from a resort lounger. It is waiting on the water, in the fishing villages and on the back roads, and it is far more interesting than the postcards suggest.

Know the Season and the Crowds

Think carefully about when you come, because it changes what you will find. The dry season from November to April is easiest for boats and snorkelling, and the beaches are at their cleanest, but the resort areas can be busy with package tourists. The shoulder months of April and October gave me calm water and thinner crowds, which suited me best. If you come in the rainy season you will trade sunshine for bigger waves and cheaper rooms, a good deal if you care more about budget than about lounging. Whatever the season, plan around the boat trip, since it needs calm water and good visibility to be worth it.