14 Best Things to Do in Cologne, Germany
I rolled into Cologne expecting a workaday cathedral city, and within an hour the place had won me over. The cathedral is the obvious star, but the city around it is warm, sociable and devoted to good beer and better food, all set on the banks of the Rhine. Locals are famously friendly. I spent four days here and would happily return.
Climb the Towers of Cologne Cathedral
The Kölner Dom dominates the skyline, and you should go up into it once you have taken in the enormous interior. The climb is 533 steps up a spiral stair to the south tower, but the reward is a panoramic view over the old town, the Rhine and the east side. I went early to beat the queue and found it worth the effort. Look for the year marks cut into the stone on the way down.
Tour the Interior of the Cathedral
Spend time inside, because the scale is impossible to appreciate from outside alone. The soaring Gothic nave, the jeweled reliquary of the Three Kings and the stained glass, including a striking modern panel by Gerhard Richter made from thousands of colored glass squares, all reward a slow look. Guided tours fill in the stories, from 600 years of construction to surviving the war nearly intact. Give it a full morning.
Cruise the Rhine
The best way to understand Cologne is from the river. Sightseeing boats leave from the quay near the cathedral and head both north and south, past the old town, the forts and the green hills beyond. I took a long evening cruise as the city lit up, and watching the cathedral glow gold over the water was a highlight. Even a one hour loop gives a fresh perspective.
Drink Kölsch in a Traditional Brewery
Kölsch is Cologne’s own pale beer, served in slim glasses and brought to you until you place your coaster over the glass. The traditional breweries, called Brauhäuser, are central to local life. I sat at the long tables of a classic Brauhaus, ordered a plate of Himmel un Äd, mashed potato with apple and black pudding, and let the waiters keep the glasses coming. It is loud in the best way.
Visit the Chocolate Museum
On a peninsula on the Rhine sits the Chocolate Museum, and a visit is part history lesson, part fantasy. You follow chocolate from the cacao bean to the bar, and the highlight is a working production line where you can taste chocolate straight from a fountain of warm melted chocolate. I left an hour later with a bag of treats and a grin. It is one of Germany’s most popular museums, and families adore it.
Explore the Old Town Around the Alter Markt
Just north of the cathedral, the Alter Markt and the surrounding lanes hold the prettiest corners of the old city. Colorful gabled houses, several rebuilt faithfully after the war, crowd the squares, and the spires of the Groß St Martin church rise behind them. I wandered these streets in the evening after the crowds thinned and found a calm, photogenic old world. It is all free.
See the Roman Arch and the Praetorium
Cologne began as a Roman city founded in 50 AD, and traces sit right beneath the streets. Underneath the town hall you can walk through the excavated remains of the Praetorium, the Roman governor’s palace, along with the original Roman drain system. I found the underground museum fascinating. It is compact, inexpensive, and gives you the imperial roots of the city.
Visit the Museum Ludwig
For modern art, the Museum Ludwig has one of the finest collections of 20th century works in Europe, including an unrivalled holding of Pop Art. I came for the Warhols and stayed for the Picassos, which number in the hundreds. The building sits next to the cathedral, a jarring and delightful contrast between the Gothic and the avant garde. Set aside two hours.
Take a Walking Tour Through the South Old Town
The southern part of the old town, once called the Altstadt Süd, is where the city feels most lived in. Here you will find cafes in former fishermen’s houses, the church of the Great St Martin on its island plaza and the Lyskirchen house with its painted walls. I joined a guided walk that wove these streets together. Good walking shoes are non negotiable.
Explore the Ehrenfeld District
Kicking back away from the old town, Ehrenfeld is the most creative corner of the city. Former factories now hold bars, galleries, craft breweries and record shops, and the street art is everywhere. I spent an afternoon hopping between a specialty coffee shop, a vinyl store and a yard full of food trucks. It is proof Cologne has a modern, young side.
Taste Local Food at a Food Hall
For a fast introduction to regional food, look for the city’s markets and food halls, where you can graze on dark rye bread, Himmel un Äd, sausage and the local spinach cake. I assembled a lunch from a handful of stalls and ate it by the river. It is a cheap, delicious way to experience the local food culture.
Take a Day Trip to the Rhineland Castles
If you have a spare day, ride the train or a boat along the Rhine to the string of hilltop castles south of the city. The stretch toward Bonn is classic Rhineland scenery, with vineyards and ruined keeps around every bend. I took a short day trip and found it the perfect escape from urban noise. Even the train ride, hugging the river, is a pleasure.
Cologne has a big heart and a long memory, and it rewards people who eat, drink and talk their way through it. Go to the cathedral, but spend most of your time at the breweries, on the river and in the neighborhoods away from the ticket lines. That is where the real city lives.
