Best Places to Visit in Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu is not one city so much as a collection of ancient sacred places strung together by chaotic streets. The Kathmandu Valley holds no fewer than seven UNESCO World Heritage sites, and taken together they weave a story of a thousand years of Buddhist and Hindu devotion that is unmatched anywhere. I spent days moving between them, and each one earned its place on the list. Here are the places I would tell any first time visitor to put at the very top.
Kathmandu Durbar Square
Kathmandu Durbar Square is the historic core of the capital, a jumble of carved temples, palace courtyards and the home of the living goddess, Kumari. The old Malla palaces and the pagoda style temples rise out of the brick lanes in a way that feels utterly unchanged, as though the past is simply layered onto the present rather than replaced by it. I spent more time here than anywhere else, watching wedding processions, touts and priests share the same worn stones.
Restoration work continues after the 2015 earthquake, so expect some scaffolding, but do not let that deter you. The architecture is world class, with some of the finest wood carving in the valley in the temple struts above your head. Time your visit for early morning, when the light is soft and the square is at its most peaceful, before the crowds and the tour groups arrive.
Swayambhunath Stupa
Swayambhunath, the monkey temple, crowns a hilltop overlooking the city and is the most pictorially famous site in the valley. The climb up the long stone staircase is rewarded at the top by the great white stupa with its all seeing eyes, plus sweeping views across Kathmandu and, on clear days, all the way to the snowy Himalaya. The resident macaques are entertaining but thieving, so guard your belongings and your snacks carefully.
Arrive at sunrise and you will largely have the echoing prayer flags and the platform to yourself, with only a few early pilgrims for company. Circle the stupa in the customary clockwise direction, take in the view from every side, and let the wind do its work on the flag strings. It is the essential experience of the valley.
Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world and the nerve center of the valley’s Tibetan Buddhist community, a great white dome ringed by prayer wheels and crowned with a golden spire. The surrounding lanes are lined with monasteries, and the whole area hums with a steady rhythm of worship. I found it the most serene place in the city, even on busy days, because the atmosphere is one of quiet, constant devotion rather than spectacle.
Take your time circling the stupa, and then find a rooftop cafe around the edge where you can watch the pilgrims below as the butter lamps flicker on at dusk. The golden spire catching the last light is one of the loveliest sights in Nepal. Give Boudhanath a full hour or two, and you will feel its calm stay with you.
Pashupatinath Temple
On the banks of the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath is the most sacred Hindu temple in Nepal, dedicated to Shiva and drawing pilgrims from across the subcontinent to its gates. For Hindus it is one of the most important temples in the world. Non Hindus can view the temple and the river ghats from designated points, where cremation ceremonies take place openly as an expression of faith in the cycle of rebirth.
It is a hauntingly beautiful and sobering place that asks for respect and stillness, not hurried photographs. Follow the rules about where you can walk and what you can photograph, dress modestly, and keep your voice low. I found it a powerful and moving experience that deepened my sense of the city and its people.
Patan Durbar Square
Across the river, the city of Patan is often called the fine arts capital of Nepal, and Patan Durbar Square justifies every word of the title. The palace and its surrounding temples are the finest concentration of Newari architecture in the whole valley, with stone and wood carving of a quality that stops you mid step. The whole square reads as a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
Patan feels calmer and more manageable than the dense heart of Kathmandu proper, and I enjoyed it just as much, sometimes more, for the slower pace. Wander the lanes behind the square as well, where working craftsmen still cast and carve, and watch the art that built the city continue to be made today.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Further east, the medieval city of Bhaktapur is the most preserved of the three old valley capitals, a whole town of brick streets and clay roofed houses that feels suspended in an earlier century. The palace square is magnificent, and the town’s pottery squares and endlessly photogenic carved windows make it a wanderer’s paradise. The atmosphere is distinct from both Kathmandu and Patan, quieter and more immersive.
I would happily have spent a full day here, though half a day does it justice if time is short. It is a simple and rewarding journey from the capital, and a completely different mood to carry home. For many travelers it becomes their favorite site in the whole valley.
Putting It Together
The four valley sites that matter most, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath, can be covered in about two focused days, and adding Patan and Bhaktapur completes the set. Each place is different in mood, from the riot of Kathmandu to the calm of Boudhanath to the medieval stillness of Bhaktapur. Together they explain, better than any words, why this small valley drew pilgrims for a thousand years.
