Things to Do in Lucca, Italy
Lucca caught me completely off guard in the best possible way. I had passed it several times on the way to somewhere else, and then I finally stopped, and I could not understand why I had kept on driving. A medieval gem wrapped in one of Europe’s great intact walls, with olive groves and marble mountains rising toward the sky around it, it is genuinely calm in a way that very few famous Italian cities manage. Here is what I did with my days there, in the order I would do them again.
Cycle the Walls
The city is encircled by a four-kilometer wall that is now a wide, tree-lined green ribbon used by everyone in town for walking, jogging and cycling. I rented a bike from one of the many shops that rent them right at the base of the ramparts and did the entire loop twice, once in the clear morning light and once again at sunset. From the top you peek over the parapets down into private gardens and old courtyards, and the whole circuit takes under an hour even at a gentle pace. There is no better introduction to Lucca than this slow, elevated circle around everything you are about to explore.
Climb the Guinigi Tower
Of the many towers that once crowded Lucca’s skyline, one survives with trees growing right out of the top of it, and it has become the city’s signature sight. I climbed the steep, narrow stairs of the Guinigi Tower and emerged among holm oaks swaying nearly forty meters above the rooftops. The view over the sea of terracotta tiles, with the Apuan Alps glinting white on the horizon, is worth every single step. Go early in the day before the queues build on the tight staircase, and take a moment at the top to simply lean over the railing and take it all in.
Wander the Amphitheatre Plaza
The Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is a rounded, almost oval square that follows the exact footprint of the old Roman arena, its surrounding buildings rising in a ring along the curve where the ancient stands once stood two thousand years ago. It is a quietly magical place, with cafés around the whole ring and a strange peace that comes from standing inside the walls of such an ancient structure. I sat here far longer than I planned, coffee turning to wine as the light changed, and I would happily give the same hours to it again on my next visit.
See Puccini’s Lucca
The composer Giacomo Puccini was born here, and the city honors him lightly and well. His birthplace on a quiet street is now a small museum, and the evening Puccini concerts at the church of San Giovanni are a beloved local ritual that has run for years. I went to one on a warm night and let the famous arias drift out over the packed room and the open piazza beyond. Even for someone who knows little about opera, it was a moving, intimate and deeply atmospheric evening, and it is the kind of memory that stays with you.
Walk the Old Streets and Gardens
Beyond the headline landmarks I simply walked, and this turned out to be the heart of the visit. Lucca rewards slow wandering through its narrow lanes, past medieval churches and quiet piazzas and wine-shop doorways. I found the botanical gardens green, cool and restful in the afternoon heat, and the streets of the far side of town far quieter than the gentle bustle near the main square. Stop into one of the specialty shops and buy a bag of the local olive oil and a good bottle of wine, then treat them as both a souvenir and an excellent decision for the evening to come.
Join the Evening Stroll
As the day softens, Lucca performs that most Italian of rituals, the evening passeggiata, and I loved folding myself into it. The streets fill with families and friends walking the same slow loop, greeting each other, stopping for a drink or a gelato. I joined the flow from the Anfiteatro down toward the cathedral and back, and it felt like being let into the city’s actual life rather than watching it from a menu. It costs nothing and happens every evening whatever the weather. Be back inside the walls for it if you can, because this is when Lucca is at its generous best.
Planning Your Time
One full day covers the tower, the walls and the piazza comfortably, but I strongly recommend two so you can cycle at leisure, take in an evening concert and enjoy the long, slow lunches that Lucca does so well. The city sits an hour from Pisa and about two and a half from Florence by train, which makes it an easy base or a deeply satisfying stop on a Tuscan itinerary. It rewards travelers who stay a night rather than rush past on a day trip, and I truly hope you give it that gift.
