Matera Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know

Matera surprised me in a way few cities have. I arrived expecting a photogenic ruin and found a living, breathing place that was Italy’s forgotten capital for centuries and is now one of its most talked about destinations. This guide pulls together everything I learned across multiple visits so you can plan yours with confidence and go straight to what matters, without the trial and error I went through.

The Story of the Sassi

To enjoy Matera you need a little history. The Sassi, which just means stones, are two ancient districts of cave dwellings dug onto a limestone outcrop, and people have lived here for thousands of years, one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. But by the mid twentieth century conditions had grown so poor that the government forced the evacuation of the cave homes in the 1950s, moving families to new housing and leaving the old districts empty. For decades the city stood hollowed out, a symbol of what writers called the shame of Italy. Then artists, scholars, and filmmakers rediscovered it, the caves were restored one by one, and Matera rose again, finally earning UNESCO status and the title of European Capital of Culture in 2019. That story of decline and rebirth is written into every room you sleep in, and knowing it makes the whole place feel different.

Getting There

Matera sits in Basilicata, the instep of Italy’s boot. The closest airports are Bari and Brindisi, both about an hour away by car, and there are direct trains from Bari on a line that now serves the city well, making it an easy add to any Puglia trip. The station is a short walk from the edge of the Sassi, so you can step off the train and be among the caves within minutes. If you drive, factor in the steep, narrow, often one-way streets of the old town and use one of the parking lots on the edge instead of trying to park inside, because the Sassi are mostly pedestrian and the streets can barely fit a car. Transfers from Bari airport are easy to arrange and reasonable in price.

Where to Stay

The single best experience is a cave hotel. These restored dwellings keep the rock-hewn walls and arched ceilings but add modern beds, bathrooms, and even plunge pools carved into the stone. I stayed in one dug into the hillside and woke to filtered light through a stone frame, unlike anything else in my travel life, and the silence of a cave bedroom is genuinely restful after a day of crowds. Book well ahead in spring and autumn, because the best rooms go fast and the most famous ones fill up months in advance. For the budget conscious, look just outside the district where prices are gentler, or choose a bed and breakfast on the plateau above with a view down over the Sassi.

Eating Around

Matera’s food is southern Italian cooking at its most satisfying. Orecchiette with turnip tops, bread from local producers, lamb, and rich tomato sauces dominate the menus, and the cooking rarely lacks for flavor or generosity. Many restaurants are set literally inside caves, which keeps the air cool and the atmosphere theatrically ancient, with the stone walls and vaulted ceilings adding to the meal. Try the pane di Matera, the dense bread with protected status, and finish with an Amaro from the region. Meals move slow here, so give them time and treat dinner as an event rather than a quick pit stop. The kitchen closes between courses the way the whole city moves, which is to say patiently.

Getting Around the City

Everything is walkable, but nothing is flat. The Sassi cling to a hillside, so you will climb, descend, and climb again, and the stone steps can be a serious workout depending on where you stay. Comfortable shoes are non negotiable, and I do not mean sneakers you regret, I mean real walking shoes with grip. On hot days, plan your route across the shadowed streets and take breaks in the air-conditioned churches. The two belvederes on the far side of the ravine give the famous views, and the walk between them is short enough to do both in one glowing hour as the sun goes down.

Final Advice

Give Matera at least two full days. One for the cave churches, the museum, and the deep history, and one for slow wandering and golden light. Read a little about the city before you arrive, because the tragedy behind the beauty makes everything more meaningful and the story of the evacuation is essential context. And whatever you do, plan to be on a belvedere as the sun goes down. That is when Matera, the city carved out of rock, truly comes alive, and it is the memory every visitor takes home.