Santander Travel Guide: The City Where Spain Smiles

First Impressions of Santander

Santander welcomed me with a wide bay, a long beach and a calm that felt like a holiday from the moment I arrived. The city sits where the green mountains meet the sea, and it manages to feel both elegant and friendly at once. Everyone talks about the seafood and the beaches, but I found the walkable center and the relaxed pace just as good. It is an easy city to slow down in, and that is exactly what I needed.

How to Get There

Santander has its own airport with decent connections from Madrid and Barcelona, and the city also links to the network by direct train from Madrid and Bilbao. The ferry from Portsmouth to Santander connects the city with England, which is how some British visitors arrive. I came in by train and found the station close to the center. For reaching the beaches and the caves nearby, a car helps, though the center works fine on foot and pairs well with a day trip.

Where to Stay

I split my nights to get the most from the city. One night near the port kept me close to the seafood restaurants, and a night in the Sardinero district put me steps from the beach. The center is compact enough that either works for a short visit. For a longer stay the Sardinero has more soul with its old villas and seafront. Book early in summer because the city fills up fast.

The Best Beaches

El Sardinero deserves its fame as the city beach, with golden sand and a proper Atlantic swell. First and second beach sit right there with cafés behind them. Further out, the coves past the lighthouse are quieter for a swim. I preferred walking the Sardinero promenade at sunset, but the water itself is clean and clear in good weather. The bay side offers shelter when the north wind blows, so you can always find a spot to swim.

The Food to Try

The seafood is the headline and it did not disappoint. I started with rabas, the fried squid rings that the city does better than anywhere, then moved to anchovies and hake. The port area and the small streets off the cathedral hold the best tapas. For a bigger meal I shared a plate of pintxos in the old town. The local white anchovy season runs through late summer and is worth timing.

Sights Beyond the Beach

Santander is more than a beach town. The Magdalena palace and its park crown the headland and make a lovely walk. The maritime museum and the cable tower over the bay add variety, while the Altamira museum nearby holds a famous replica of the ancient cave paintings. I spent a full day dividing myself between the palace, the museum and the bay walk and never felt rushed.

Day Trips

The city works as a base for the whole Cantabrian coast. Santillana del Mar, the old stone village, sits half an hour away, and the Comillas palace with its Gaudi touches is close too. The Picos de Europa mountains and the town of Laredo each make a full day out. With a car I covered two day trips easily and returned to the same dinner spot each night.

Final Thoughts

Santander gives you a real beach city with a friendly town center and some of the best seafood in Spain. It is easy to combine the coast and the mountains, and the pace suits anyone tired of rushing. My advice is to come in spring or early autumn, book near the Sardinero, and make rabas your first meal. You will leave planning your return.