Lamu Kenya Travel Guide
Lamu took me completely by surprise. I had heard a mention of an old Swahili town on the Kenyan coast, but nothing prepared me for a place this serene, this beautiful and this far off the well worn map. Sitting at the edge of an island archipelago, Lamu is a town that time seems to have slowed down around, and it is unlike anywhere else I have travelled in East Africa.
What and where Lamu is
Lamu rests on the shores of an island in the Lamu archipelago, a scattering of sand and mangrove covered islands lying off the coast of Kenya between the regions of the lower coast and the wider Indian Ocean. The heart of the place is the old town, a cluster of centuries old stone houses built in the classic Swahili style, with coral block walls, timber balconies and carved doors that speak to centuries of trade. It is one of the few places you can still see that architecture standing the way it did when the town was a busy port.
Getting to Lamu
Getting there is part of the appeal, because no bridge has brought the mainland rush over. The town is reached by boat, and the approach across the flat, pale waters between the islands is quietly thrilling. From the nearest coastal point on the mainland, a short sailing trip takes you out to the island and into the calm harbour. The journey forces you to slow down before you even arrive, and by the time I stepped onto the old stone quay I had already left the mainland behind me.
The old town
Lamu’s old town rewards wandering with no plan at all. The narrow lanes wind between tall coral and timber houses, their heavy carved doors standing open to reveal cool dim courtyards. I spent a full afternoon just walking, turning corners to find a mosque, a courtyard full of washing lines and children playing, or a doorway carved with geometric patterns generations old. The UNESCO listing that protects the old town has kept it from being built over, and you feel that care in the unhurried pace of the place.
The dhows
The harbour is where the town’s long history of seafaring shows itself. Wooden dhows, the traditional sailing craft of the Indian Ocean, rest at anchor or glide in and out with sails catching the breeze, and seeing an entire way of life still based on wind and tide was one of the most moving parts of my trip. I took a short dhow trip out among the islands, and the silence of the sails over the turquoise water beat any motorised tour I have ever done.
Local life and food
Lamu is a working town, and its rhythm is set by fishing, the tides and the daily round of the market. In the morning the catch comes in and the day’s food is laid out, and I ate some of the freshest seafood I have had anywhere in Kenya. The local cuisine carries the flavour of the coast, with coconut, spice and the day’s fish at the centre of most plates. People are warm without being pushy, and I was invited into a family courtyard for tea within a day of arriving, a kindness I will not forget.
Islands and beaches beyond the town
Beyond the old town, the archipelago opens up into quiet islands and pale beaches that are the answer to anyone craving a truly empty stretch of sand. I spent a day hopping between a couple of nearby islands by dhow, walking deserted beaches and swimming in water so clear it barely looked real. Because Lamu sees a fraction of the visitors that busier Kenyan beaches do, the whole experience felt private in a way I have rarely known.
Where to stay and practical notes
Accommodation in Lamu leans towards simple guesthouses and small lodges rather than big resorts, which suits the character of the place perfectly. Rooms are basic but clean, and the staff go out of their way to help you plan boat trips and outings. Light, loose clothing suits the heat, and note that the paths are sandy, so pack for walking on sand. Cash is the norm outside a few lodges, and it is wise to carry enough for your stay.
Final thought
Lamu is not an obvious holiday destination, and that is exactly its gift. It is a genuine, living piece of Swahili coastal culture, set in waters you will have almost to yourself. I went expecting a brief stop and ended up rearranging two more days of my trip to stay longer. If you are heading down the Kenyan coast and want something that feels truly discovered, go to Lamu before the rest of the world finds out.
