Things to Do in Zermatt
Zermatt is a car free village at the foot of the Matterhorn, and the mountain dominates everything. I came for the peak and stayed for how easy it is to get high up, move around, and take in some of the biggest scenery in the Alps. The train brings you in and then the village runs on electric carts and your own two feet. Here is what I would do again.
Ride the Gornergrat Railway for the Best View
The rack railway from Zermatt to Gornergrat climbs past several lakes and viewpoints, ending at a high station with a full view of the Matterhorn and the glacier below. I sat on the left side going up for the best angle. The upper station has a restaurant and terraces, and the panorama is enormous. It is the single best bang for your money in the area. On a clear morning the view takes in several of the biggest peaks in Switzerland.
Watch the Matterhorn From the Village
The Matterhorn is visible from the village itself, and the light on it changes all day. I found the best spots near the church bridge and along the paths north of town, where the whole peak shows above the rooftops. Early morning and sunset give the pinkest light. Do not skip just standing still and looking at it for a while. The way the summit flushes pink at dawn and again at dusk never got old across my whole stay.
Walk to the Five Lakes
The five lakes trail above Zermatt is a loop that passes small alpine lakes that mirror the peak. The full route takes a few hours and involves some uphill, but you can shorten it with the cable car. I did a partial loop and the reflection of the Matterhorn in one of the calm lakes was worth every step. Pack layers because it is cooler at that height. The trail gets quiet beyond the first lake, so you can walk in peace with the whole ridgeline to yourself.
Ride the Sunnegga and Rothorn Cable Cars
The cable cars above Zermatt open up different parts of the mountain. Sunnegga has a panoramic terrace a short walk from the village, and the Rothorn is the highest easily reached point on the western side. Each gives a different angle on the Matterhorn and the glacier. I split the two across different days to keep the altitude gentle. The ride alone, gliding over meadows and rock, is worth it even on a partly cloudy day.
Take the Glacier Express or a Scenic Train
The Glacier Express connects Zermatt to St. Moritz and is famous for its panoramic windows, but even a short ride out of the valley is scenic. I took the regional train a couple of stops through the gorges and tunnels. If you want the full experience, the Glacier Express makes a good, relaxed way to leave the region while still enjoying the Alps. Book the panoramic seats a day ahead in high season because they sell out.
Ski or Ride in Winter
In ski season, Zermatt links with the Italian side at Cervinia, giving one of the longest high altitude ski areas in Europe. The terrain above Zermatt suits a range of levels, and the glacier offers snow most of the year. I was there in summer, but the ski infrastructure, lift system and mountain restaurants all looked ready to handle heavy use when the snow arrives. The summertime hiking trails give a good sense of how much terrain the winter lifts open up.
Eat Cheese and Heavy Food With a View
Mountain food here means raclette, cheese fondue, and rosti, often eaten with the peak in view. I had fondue at a restaurant near the Gornergrat station and it tasted better for the setting. Even the casual pizzeria at the base of the funicular has a good view of the village. Book dinner ahead on weekends because the good tables go fast. A long lunch at an altitude restaurant, watching the clouds move across the peak, is one of the best ways to spend part of a day.
Plan for the Weather and the Altitude
Zermatt’s weather changes quickly, and cloud often sits on the peak while the village stays clear. I checked the live mountain webcams each morning and shifted my plans toward whichever side the sun was on. The altitude over three thousand metres is real, so I went high early and came down by late afternoon. That rhythm kept me comfortable and gave me the best light. Drink plenty of water and keep the first day gentle while your body adjusts to the height.
Zermatt is expensive, but the quality and the setting justify at least two days: one for the Gornergrat side and the lakes, one for the cable car side and a good meal. Give the Matterhorn plenty of time and let the mountain dictate the pace. By the last evening, the peak had become the easiest landmark in my whole trip to find and the hardest to stop looking at.
