12 Things to Do in Hannover: A City of Green Spaces
Hannover surprised me. I expected a quiet business town, but the city turned out to be full of parks, gardens and one of the grandest royal gardens in Europe. I spent three days on foot and barely scratched the surface. Here is what I would do again.
Walk the Royal Gardens of Herrenhausen
The Herzog-Anton-Ulrich sounds grand because it is. The Great Garden is a formal baroque masterpiece of hedges, fountains and statuary, laid out over centuries. I spent a full morning just wandering the lanes and sitting by the big fountain. It is meticulously kept, and it feels like stepping into an older, more ordered world.
Follow the Gardens Out to the Berggarten
Beyond the formal garden, the Berggarten is a huge botanical garden with cactus houses and tropical glasshouses. It is my favorite part of the whole estate. I walked from the hedge maze to the orchid house and lost track of time. The contrast between the strict baroque lines back there and this wilder greenery is a pleasure.
Enjoy the Palace Gala and Small Film Screenings
Herrenhausen hosts events through the year, from open air cinema by the pond to evening light shows on the palace. I caught a jazz evening on the lawn and it was charming. Check the calendar before you go, because a summer evening here stays with you longer than any sight.
Take a Walk Around the Maschsee
The Maschsee is a large artificial lake right in the city. The path around it is flat and popular with runners and walkers, and the towpath feels a million miles from office buildings. In summer there are rowboats, a beach section, and festivals on the shore. I did a full loop at sunset and it was the calmest hour of my trip.
Wander the Old Town Lane
The old town has a narrow lane called the Kramerstrasse where half timbered houses lean in from both sides. It is full of little shops and cafes, and it is the closest Hannover comes to a picture postcard. I ate lunch there and walked the clutch of streets around the old town hall, which is small but full of character.
Visit the New Town Hall
The Neues Rathaus is an enormous palace like building with a dome you can ride up in a curved elevator. From the top I got a view over the whole city and the lake. Below, the entrance hall holds four large models showing the city at different points in its history, including the damage of the war. It makes the modern town make sense.
See the Aegidien Memorial Crypt
Tucked beside the old church ruins on Aegidienplatz, there is a small memorial to the victims of war and violence. It is quiet and moving, and the ruined church above open to the sky is a powerful sight. It asks for a few minutes of reflection, and I was glad I gave them.
Cycle the Leine River Valley
Rent a bike and head south out of the city along the river. The path runs through meadows and past the old villages, and it is dead flat, so it suits any pace. I cycled about fifteen kilometres out and back and saw almost nothing but green. It is the best way to see the region’s countryside without a car.
Explore the Sea Life and the Zoo on a Rainy Day
Hannover gets its share of grey days, and the zoo is surprisingly good, with themed areas and open habitats. For families, these are the two reliable rainy hour fillers. I visited the zoo on a cool afternoon and was impressed by the space the animals get.
Enjoy the Eilenriede City Forest
The Eilenriede is a vast urban forest right inside the city, stretching for kilometres. On a Sunday it fills with families walking, jogging and cycling. I spent an afternoon there with a book and a blanket. For a capital of a region, having this much quiet woodland within walking distance is a real luxury.
Eat Camembert from the Region
The local speciality is a soft cheese called camembert, produced in nearby farms down the road at the old market town of Nue. It is baked and served with potatoes, or melted on bread. I had it at a small sausage stand and it was the most memorable meal of the trip. It is simple food, and it is exactly right after a long walk.
Take a Day Trip out to the Steinhuder Meer
If you have an extra day, head an hour north to the Steinhuder Meer, a big shallow lake. There are beaches, paddle boats, and a small island fortress you can reach by ferry. I spent a relaxed half day there and returned for another night in Hannover feeling like I had seen two different worlds.
Hannover is a city you feel more than you photograph. Bring comfortable shoes, plan around the gardens, and do not rush. The green spaces do the work for you, and the days melt away in the best way.
