Bogota (Colombia) Travel Guide
I landed in Bogota expecting a quick stopover before the coast. I stayed eleven days. The city took me by surprise in the best way, and I have come back three times since. If you are headed there and wondering what to do in Bogota, this guide is everything I wish someone had handed me on my first trip.
Getting used to the altitude
Bogota sits at 2,640 meters above sea level, about 8,600 feet, and the altitude is the first thing you notice. I walked out of El Dorado airport feeling fine, then got winded walking up a gentle street on day one. Take your first two days slowly. Drink water constantly, skip the heavy meals at first, and keep your first night light on alcohol. Caffeine helps some people and hurts others, so listen to your body. By day three I was hiking the hills like a local, but I will never again joke about a city that lives almost a kilometer higher than Denver.
La Candelaria, the historic center
I spent most of my first day wandering La Candelaria, the old neighborhood with its colonial balconies and cobblestones. The streets are colorful and a little chaotic, and I liked it better in the morning before the crowds arrived. Start at Plaza de Bolivar, then walk to the Catedral Primada and the gold-filled Museo del Oro, where I stood far too long staring at the famous golden raft. On Sundays the main avenues close to cars and the whole city turns into a cycling and walking path called the Ciclovia. Rent a bike, join the flow, and you will see Bogota the way its residents do.
Monserrate and the view
The single best thing I did was climb Monserrate, the mountain that watches over the city. You can take the cable car, the funicular, or hike the trail if you are fit and acclimated. I took the funicular up and wished I had hiked the trail for the feel of it. At the top you get a view across the whole valley, and there is a church plus several restaurants. Go late on a clear day so you can watch the city lights come on below. The cathedral is much busier on Sundays, so pick a weekday if you want space to yourself.
Where I ate and drank
Bogota owns its food scene. I ate ajiaco, the hearty chicken and potato soup that is the local specialty, at La Puerta Falsa near the plaza, and it is worth the line. I tried bandeja paisa, arepas, and empanadas on nearly every corner. For coffee I stopped at small roasting places in Chapinero and Quinta Camacho, and my morning ritual became a tinto, the sweet black coffee Colombians drink all day. Do not skip the fruit markets either. The lulo, guanabana, and maracuya juices put store bought juice to shame.
Museums, street art, and neighborhoods
Beyond the center I made time for the Museo Botero, where I finally understood why everyone raves about Fernando Botero’s chubby figures, and I spent a long afternoon in the Museo Nacional. For something different I took a graffiti tour through La Candelaria and the surrounding blocks, and the street art here is as good as any I have seen in Europe. When I wanted a calmer day I walked the upright streets of Usaquen and the green paths of the Parque Simon Bolivar. Chapinero and Zona G are where the nightlife lives, and the rooftop bars gave me my favorite twilight views of the Andres mountains.
How to get around
The TransMilenio bus network covers the city and it is cheap, but it gets packed at rush hour. I mostly used ride hailing apps because they are affordable and safe, and I walked everywhere in the center. Avoid taxis that are not booked through an app. Pack patience for traffic because Bogota is a big city and distances are longer than they look on a map.
Safety and practical notes
Bogota these days is far safer than its old reputation, but I stayed sensible. I kept my phone in my pocket after dark, stayed in well lit areas, and booked a hotel in a good neighborhood like Chapinero rather than a cheap one in a quiet street. I carried only small bills for markets and street food. The weather is tricky too. It rains several times a day and the temperature swings, so I packed a light jacket and umbrella and dressed in layers. Cash is handy but cards work nearly everywhere.
Why I keep coming back
Bogota is not a postcard city. It is loud, layered, and a little rough around the edges, and that is exactly why I love it. The history is deep, the coffee is strong, the food is honest, and the people are warm once you slow down to their pace. Give it three or four days at least, arrive ready for the altitude, and let the city set its own rhythm. I think you will fall for it the way I did. My only regret is that I did not plan for a longer stay the first time around.
