Things to Do in Miyajima, Japan
I have stood on Miyajima’s shore watching the great red torii gate appear to float on the tide, and I still think it is one of the most magical sights in Japan. But the island known as Itsukushima hides far more behind that famous gate, and I have spent enough days wandering it to know exactly what belongs on your list.
See the Floating Torii at the Right Time
The centerpiece is the Great Torii Gate of Itsukushima Shrine, built in the sea so that at high tide it appears to rise straight from the water. You want to time your visit. Photography at high tide gives you the classic floating shot, while low tide lets you walk right out to the gate and touch the massive pillars coated in barnacles and seaweed. I have done both and cannot choose a favorite, so I planned my day to catch the change. Check a local tide chart, because the difference turns the whole scene into two separate experiences. On my favorite day I arrived at low tide, walked out to the gate along the wet sand while the shore was still quiet, and then lingered at the shrine until the water returned, which meant I saw it from both angles without ever rushing.
Walk Through Itsukushima Shrine
The shrine itself, with its graceful wooden corridors that stand over the water, is a UNESCO World Heritage site that rewards slow wandering. I always come at it from the tower end so the elevated walkways unfold gradually, with the open halls framed by ship masts. The bright vermilion lacquer against the grey sea is a combination I photograph every trip and never get tired of.
Ride the Ropeway to Mount Misen
For the island’s highest reward, take the Ropeway up Mount Misen, the holy peak that gives the island its name. The cable car offers sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea and, on clear days, the coast of Hiroshima far below. At the top you can hike to the summit for a panorama of small islands scattered across the blue, and visit the ancient Kiyomori Temple with its sacred flame said to have burned for over a thousand years. I made the mistake once of doing this in full sun with no water, so pack a bottle. The descent on foot through the forested trail, past stone lanterns and giant twisted oaks, is one of my favorite walks on the whole island.
Meet the Wild Deer
Miyajima is famous for its free roaming deer, considered sacred messengers of the shrine. They wander the streets, the beaches, and the temple grounds, and they will try to eat anything loosely held. I learned the hard way to guard my map and my snack, because they are quick. Feed them nothing, because everything they fumble for is bad for them, and simply enjoy their unhurried company as they nap in the shade.
Eat Your Way Through the Main Street
Omotesando, the shopping street that runs from the ferry port, is a parade of local food, and I treat it as its own attraction. The signature is momiji manju, a maple leaf shaped cake, usually filled with red bean paste, though I have tried custard, cheese, and chocolate versions. Another must is the local oysters, served grilled, fried, or in rice bowls, a regional gift from the waters around the island. A soft serve cone of local flavor, perhaps with a maple leaf on top, finishes the walk perfectly.
Wander the Five Storied Pagoda
Just uphill from the main shrine, the Five Storied Pagoda and the neighboring Senjokaku Hall form a quiet architectural ensemble that I often have almost to myself. The pagoda, with its red and gold tiers against the forest, is beautiful, and the view from the small hill over the bay is worth the short climb. It is a calm counterpoint to the busy crowds at the shoreline.
Stay Overnight for the Quiet
The vast majority of visitors arrive by morning ferry and leave by evening, and that is a shame, because Miyajima after dark is entirely different and far more peaceful. I stayed once in a local ryokan near the water, walked the empty streets under lanterns, and saw the shrine lit up by night with hardly anyone around. If your schedule allows an overnight, I urge you to take it. A mountain view at sunset and a quiet shrine after dusk are experiences the day trippers miss entirely.
My Final Take
Miyajima is compact enough to cover richly in a day and deep enough to reward two. Time the tide, ride the ropeway, eat the oysters and the maple cakes, and do not rush past the smaller halls. I have come back year after year and the island always hands me something new, whether it is a deer stealing a moment or a sunset over the floating gate.
