Things to Do in the Perhentian Islands

The Perhentians stripped my phone battery, my watch and most of my plans. Two islands off Malaysia’s northeast coast, Kecil and Besar, sit in a sea so clear it looks staged, and the days here run on their own schedule. I spent close to a week and found no shortage of things to do, most of them simple, all of them good.

Snorkel straight off the beach

You do not need a boat trip, though they help. The coral starts right at the shoreline on much of the coast, so I would pull on a mask and drift out from the sand, past branching coral and schools of fish. Turtles are the star resident, and I saw several gliding over the reef. The water is warm and shallow near shore, which makes it easy for beginners, and renting a mask and fins for the day costs very little.

Take a boat to the best spots

For the full menu, join a shared boat tour around the islands. Over two half days I visited the marine park, where fish gather thick and tame, and tucked away coves with names that switch between locals and tourists. Each stop was a different colour of blue, and the captains know exactly where the turtles and the reef sharks usually hang out. Bring a dry bag, because the boat spray is generous.

Try a scuba dive if you can

The Perhentians are a well known dive spot, cheaper than many places and teeming with life. I did a discovery dive here and the underwater world exceeded the surface: sea turtles, triggerfish and morays, with visibility I could not have imagined. Full certification courses run over a few days for those with the time. If you have never tried scuba and the budget allows, this is a gentle, rewarding place to start.

Walk the jungle track across the island

A hiking path cuts across the narrow neck of Perhentian Kecil, connecting the western and eastern beaches. I tackled it in the morning before the heat peaked, climbing through forest that smelled of wet earth and wild herbs, past a viewpoint over the bays and a small blowhole at the coast. The track takes a couple of hours one way and is steeper in parts than it looks. Sturdy shoes beat thongs here.

Find the quieter beaches

Every island hides a beach that most people pass by. On foot and by boat I found smaller coves where the sand was empty and a single beach shack sold cold drinks and grilled fish. Days there passed quickly, swimming, reading and napping under the scrubby shade. The most settled travellers I met all had their own private patch of sand they kept returning to, and after a while I had mine too.

Time it with the turtle season

Green turtles nest on the islands between roughly April and September, and the hatchlings usually arrive in the months after. A local conservation programme runs on the larger island, and joining a guided, responsible visit is both fascinating and does real good. I watched a volunteer patrol at night and learned how they log the nests. It is one of those experiences that stays with you long after the tan fades.

Embrace the evenings without electricity fuss

Nightfall brings a shift. Many beach huts run on generators that switch off by late evening, and the islands have no real nightlife, so the evenings resolve into dinner, conversation and the stars. I found the enforced simplicity refreshing. Spicy seafood from a beach grill, fruit shakes, a string of fairy lights over the sand, and an early night under a loud ceiling fan. It is rustic, and that is the charm.

The pace is the point

After a few days I stopped making lists and let the islands take over. The routine became swim, eat, snorkel, sleep, repeat, and it was one of the most restorative weeks I have had. The Perhentians are not a five star resort destination and they are all the better for it. Go for the water, the turtles and the simplicity, leave your watch at home, and you will understand why people stay longer than they planned.